How to grow Strawberry in Australia
Strawberries are low, long-lived perennials that crop well in beds, pots and hanging baskets right across Australia. Plant runners or potted plants in autumn or winter, keep the crown at soil level, mulch under the fruit and net against birds. In the subtropics they are grown as a winter and spring crop; in the south they fruit from late spring into autumn.
📖 Our full guide: How to Grow Strawberries in Australia
At a glance
When to sow by region
| Region | When to sow | Regional note |
|---|---|---|
| South East Queensland | March to May | |
| Northern Rivers NSW | March to June | Cooler winters mean a longer establishment window. |
| Sydney & Coastal NSW | March to June | Plant runners Mar to Jun. Cooler winters than SEQ give a longer establishment window and a spring crop. |
| Melbourne & Victoria | March to May | Plant runners/crowns Mar to May for autumn/winter cropping. Cool season suits. Frost-tolerant perennial. |
| Adelaide & SA | June to August | Plant bare-rooted runners Jun to Aug in Adelaide; potted plants any time in the cooler months. Mulch well and shade fruit in heatwaves. |
| Perth & WA | April to July | Plant runners Apr to Jul for spring fruit; potted plants can go in through the cool months. Mulch well and shade the fruit in heatwaves. |
| Tasmania | April and May, September and October | Plant runners Apr to May or Sep to Oct. Cool ripening grows the sweetest strawberries in the country. |
| Canberra & ACT | March to May | Plant from March to May. Canberra's cold winters suit strawberries, and the harvest runs from October to January. Plants are perennial but are best replaced every 2 to 3 years. |
| North Queensland | April and May | Grown as a dry season annual in NQ. Plant runners Apr to May, pick May to Aug, pull plants before the wet. No chill needed for annual cropping. |
| Darwin & Top End | April and May | Plant runners Apr to May as a dry season annual. Fruiting needs no winter chill. |
Where to plant
Strawberries need at least six hours of direct sun for sweet fruit and good flowering, and rich, well-drained soil. Prepare the bed a month or two ahead with compost or well-rotted cow manure. They hate waterlogged roots, so on heavy soil plant in a raised bed about 15 to 20 cm high, or in pots.
Rotate: avoid beds where tomatoes, eggplants, capsicums, chillies or potatoes grew in the last three years, as they share soil diseases. Move strawberries to fresh soil every three years or so, which also limits the build-up of viruses.
- South East Queensland: plant from March to May for fruit through winter and spring. The Northern Rivers and Sydney: plant from March to June.
- Melbourne and Canberra: plant from March to May. In Canberra the main harvest runs from October to January.
- Adelaide: plant bare-rooted runners from June to August, or potted plants through the cool months. Mulch well and shade fruit in heatwaves.
- Perth: plant runners from April to July for spring fruit, and shade the fruit in heatwaves.
- Hobart: plant runners in April and May, or in September and October. Cool ripening gives very sweet berries.
- North Queensland and Darwin: grow strawberries as a dry season annual. Plant runners in April and May, pick from May to August, and pull plants out before the wet.
How to plant
- Buy certified disease-free runners or potted plants from a nursery. Runners from old plants can carry virus.
- Dig compost into the bed, or mound it up into a raised row.
- For bare-rooted runners, trim off old leaves and dead roots, make a wide hole with a small mound in the centre, and spread the roots over the mound.
- Set the crown, where the leaves join the roots, exactly at soil level. A buried crown rots; a crown sitting too high dries out.
- Space plants about 20 to 30 cm apart, water in well and mulch with straw, sugar cane or pine needles.
Watering and feeding
Water regularly, especially while fruiting and in summer and dry spells, at the base of the plants rather than over the leaves. Drip irrigation under the mulch is ideal. Keep the soil moist but never waterlogged.
Feed with a fertiliser for fruiting plants that is boosted with potassium, starting when flowering begins. A seaweed solution at flowering also helps. Too much nitrogen gives leafy plants with soft fruit that rots easily.
Pruning and care through the year
- Keep a thick mulch of straw, sugar cane or pine needles under the plants so the fruit sits clean and dry.
- Cut off runners as they form, unless you want new plants. Runners take energy away from fruiting.
- Remove dead and old leaves regularly to reduce fungal disease, and tidy plants after the main crop.
- Net plants as the first fruit colours. Birds, rats and possums all find ripe strawberries.
- Replace plants every two to three years with fresh, healthy runners, as old plants crop less and build up disease.
Harvesting
Pick strawberries when they are fully red right to the tip, in the cool of the morning. Pick every day or two in peak season, with a short piece of stalk attached, and remove any damaged or mouldy fruit so it does not spread rot.
Strawberries keep only a few days in the fridge; do not wash them until just before eating. They freeze well for cooking and smoothies.
Growing in pots
Strawberries are one of the best crops for pots, troughs, hanging baskets and even foam boxes with drainage holes. Use a pot at least 20 cm wide per plant, filled with premium potting mix. Pots dry out quickly, so water often in warm weather, and feed with a half-strength liquid fertiliser more frequently. Raised containers also keep the fruit off the ground and away from slugs.
Using it
Eat them fresh, with cream or yoghurt, in salads, tarts and smoothies, or make jam. Homegrown fruit picked fully ripe is much sweeter than shop fruit picked early for transport.
New plants from runners
In summer, peg a few healthy runners into small pots of potting mix while they are still attached to the parent plant. Once they have rooted, after a few weeks, cut them free and plant them out in autumn. Only take runners from healthy, vigorous plants, and buy in new certified stock every few years.
Varieties
- Kabarla
- Festival
- Red Gauntlet
- Albion
- Alpine (Fragaria vesca)
Companion planting
Strawberries share a bed happily with low herbs and leafy greens. Keep them away from the tomato family's old beds and from large, hungry neighbours.
Good companions
- Borage Its blue flowers draw bees, which improve pollination and fruit shape.
- Lettuce A quick, low crop that fits around young strawberry plants.
- Spinach A cool-season leafy crop that shares the bed through winter.
- Thyme A low herb for the bed edge whose flowers bring in bees.
- Garlic Narrow and upright, it shares the bed without shading the strawberries.
- Onion Another slim crop that fits between rows.
Keep apart
Avoid planting these close to strawberry.
- Brassicas Large, hungry plants that shade and crowd strawberries. Give them their own bed.
- Fennel Often listed as a poor neighbour for most crops.
Pests and diseases
Viruses and fungal diseases are the biggest threats, along with birds and slugs on the fruit. Certified stock, good air flow and dry fruit prevent most problems.
Pests to watch for
- Birds Pecked or missing ripe fruit. Net plants as the fruit colours.
- Slugs Holes eaten into ripe fruit and slime trails, worst in wet weather.
- Aphids Small insects under the leaves and on new growth. Treat promptly, as they spread strawberry viruses.
- Spider mite Fine pale speckling on the leaves and fine webbing in hot, dry weather.
Diseases to watch for
- Grey mould (Botrytis) Fluffy grey mould on flowers and fruit in wet weather. Pick off affected fruit and keep fruit dry on mulch.
- Powdery mildew White powder on the leaves and leaf edges curling upwards.
- Leaf spot Small purple-edged spots on the leaves. Remove old leaves.
- Crown rot Plants wilt and collapse, with brown, rotted tissue when the crown is cut. Common where crowns are buried or the soil is waterlogged.
Common questions
When do you plant strawberries in Australia?
In autumn in most regions: March to May in South East Queensland, Melbourne and Canberra, March to June in Sydney, April to July in Perth, and June to August for bare-rooted runners in Adelaide. In the tropics, plant in April and May as a dry season crop. Pick your region at the top of the page for exact months.
How deep do I plant strawberries?
With the crown, where the leaves meet the roots, exactly at soil level. If it is buried it rots, and if it sits too high it dries out.
Why are my strawberries small and misshapen?
Poor pollination gives small, lumpy berries, as each seed on the surface needs to be pollinated. Plant flowers such as borage to bring in bees. Too little sun, irregular watering and poor feeding also give small, tasteless fruit.
Should I cut the runners off my strawberries?
Yes, unless you want new plants. Runners take energy away from fruiting. Keep a few from healthy plants to replace old ones every two or three years.
How do I stop birds eating my strawberries?
Cover the plants with netting as the first fruit starts to colour, and secure it at the edges. Growing them in hanging baskets or raised pots also helps against slugs.
How long do strawberry plants last?
They are perennials and can live for years, but crops drop off and disease builds up after two or three years. Replace them with fresh, certified runners and move them to new soil.
Can I grow strawberries in pots?
Yes, they are ideal for pots, troughs, hanging baskets and foam boxes. Use premium potting mix, a pot at least 20 cm wide per plant, regular water and a weak liquid feed often.
Why are my strawberries rotting?
Grey mould (botrytis) rots fruit in wet weather, and fruit sitting on wet soil rots too. Mulch under the plants, water at the base, remove old leaves and mouldy fruit, and pick ripe fruit promptly.
Sources we checked: Sustainable Gardening Australia: Strawberries; Yates: How to grow strawberries; Gardening Australia: Growing strawberries.