How to grow Lemon Tree in Australia
A lemon tree is the backyard fruit tree most Australians start with, and with good drainage, sun and regular feeding it will crop for decades. Lemons are frost sensitive, so in cold areas choose a Meyer and give it the warmest spot in the garden.
📖 Our full guide: How to Grow Lemons in Australia
At a glance
When to plant by region
| Region | When to plant | Regional note |
|---|---|---|
| South East Queensland | March to September | |
| Northern Rivers NSW | March to September | |
| Sydney & Coastal NSW | March to September | |
| Melbourne & Victoria | September to November | Plant Sep to Nov. Melbourne frosts run roughly mid May to mid September, so spring planting gives a young tree a full warm season before winter. Meyer is the hardiest lemon. |
| Adelaide & SA | March and April, September and October | Citrus thrive in Adelaide. Plant trees Sep to Oct or Mar to Apr, avoiding frosty midwinter and peak summer heat. Water deeply in summer. |
| Perth & WA | May to September | Mediterranean: lemon trees thrive; no adjustment needed. Plant container trees spring-autumn. |
| Tasmania | October and November | Plant a Meyer lemon Oct to Nov after the last frost in early October, in a warm sheltered spot. The hardiest citrus for Tasmania. Protect young trees from frost. |
| Canberra & ACT | November | Marginal. Meyer is hardiest; plant in November after the last frost against a north facing wall and use frost cloth while young. |
| North Queensland | May to October | Dry season establishment May to Oct. Lemon trees thrive in tropical north; extended harvest year-round. |
| Darwin & Top End | May to October | Dry season establishment May to Oct. Lemon trees thrive in tropical north; extended harvest year-round. |
Where to plant
Plant in full sun, out of strong and cold winds, which scar fruit and cut yields. Lemons are frost sensitive. Avoid frost hollows, and in cold districts plant against a warm, north-facing wall.
Drainage matters more than anything else. Citrus roots die in waterlogged soil, so avoid low, soggy spots and plant on a raised mound if your soil is heavy clay or shallow. Citrus prefer soil around pH 6 to 7. Keep lawn and weeds out of the root zone, roughly out to the edge of the canopy, as citrus roots are shallow and compete poorly.
- Temperate and Mediterranean areas such as Adelaide, Perth and Sydney suit lemons very well.
- Melbourne, Canberra and Hobart: choose Meyer, plant in spring after the last frost in the warmest spot, and use frost cloth on young trees.
- North Queensland and the Top End: plant in the dry season so the tree is established before the wet.
Choosing a variety
| Variety | Notes |
|---|---|
| Eureka | The common supermarket lemon. Few thorns, crops for much of the year, less cold hardy |
| Lisbon | Vigorous and thorny, copes with heat, wind and cold better than Eureka; main crop in winter |
| Meyer | A lemon hybrid, probably with a mandarin or orange. Smaller, thin-skinned, less sour fruit; the most cold tolerant lemon and good in pots |
| Lemonade | A lemon hybrid with mild, sweet fruit you can eat fresh; not a sour cooking lemon |
Buy grafted trees. Dwarfing rootstock such as Flying Dragon keeps a tree small enough for a pot or a courtyard.
How to plant
- Plant in spring after the last frost. In warm, frost-free areas autumn planting works too.
- Water the tree in its pot well before planting.
- Dig a hole wider than the pot but no deeper. On heavy or shallow soil, build a wide raised mound and plant into it.
- Plant at the same depth as in the pot, with the graft union (the bump low on the trunk) well above the soil.
- Water in deeply, then mulch, keeping the mulch 10 to 15 cm clear of the trunk to prevent collar rot.
- Keep the soil moist while the tree establishes; that usually means watering at least weekly.
Watering and feeding
Give a deep soak rather than a light sprinkle, then let the top few centimetres dry before watering again. Young trees need water at least weekly while they establish. Established trees need regular deep watering through spring and summer, and most of all from flowering until the fruit has set and through dry, hot spells. Never leave them sitting in soggy soil.
Feed with a citrus fertiliser in late winter or early spring, again in summer, and again in early autumn, at the packet rate, spreading it around the edge of the canopy and watering it in. Do not feed heavily while the tree is in full flower, which can make it drop young fruit. Too much nitrogen gives thick-skinned, less juicy fruit. Young trees need only small amounts, little and often.
Pruning and care through the year
- In the first year or two, pick off most of the young fruit so the tree builds a strong frame.
- Prune lightly: remove dead wood, crossed or rubbing branches, branches touching the ground, and any shoots from below the graft.
- Dead twigs carry melanose, a spotting disease, so cut them out.
- Citrus gall wasp: cut out swollen galls on stems between April and June, or slice the top off each gall in mid to late winter. Bag gall cuttings and leave them in the sun for a month before disposal.
- Bronze orange bugs: knock young bugs into a bucket of soapy water in winter, wearing eye protection and gloves, as they squirt a liquid that burns.
Harvesting
Pick lemons when they are full size, juicy and coloured for their variety. Twist gently or cut the stalk. Lemons do not sweeten or ripen further after picking, but they hold well on the tree for weeks, so pick as you need them.
Eureka bears through much of the year. Lisbon and Meyer give their main crop in winter.
Growing in pots
Choose a dwarf tree on dwarfing rootstock or a Meyer, and a pot at least 50 cm wide with good drainage holes. Use a premium potting mix suitable for citrus. Potted citrus dry out faster and use up nutrients faster than trees in the ground, so water more often and feed lightly but regularly through the warm months. Repot into fresh mix every few years.
Companion planting
Citrus do best with their root zone clear of competition. Low plants that feed the soil or bring in helpful insects are fine near the edge of the canopy.
Good companions
- Comfrey Its leaves can be cut and laid under the tree as a mulch that feeds the soil. Keep it away from the trunk, and note it is hard to remove once planted.
Keep apart
Avoid planting these close to lemon tree.
- Lawn and weeds Grass and weeds in the root zone compete with the shallow citrus roots for water and food.
Pests and diseases
Most citrus problems in home gardens are caused by insects on new growth and by poor drainage.
Pests to watch for
- Citrus gall wasp Lumpy, woody swellings on young stems, visible from autumn. Prune or peel them before the wasps emerge in spring.
- Bronze orange bug Shield-shaped bugs, green to orange when young and bronze-black as adults, on new shoots. Flowers and young fruit drop.
- Leaf miner Silvery, winding trails in new leaves, which curl and distort. Mostly cosmetic on established trees.
- Scale Small bumps on leaves and stems, sticky honeydew, black sooty mould and ants.
Diseases to watch for
- Melanose Small, raised, dark brown spots on leaves and fruit, spread from dead twigs in wet weather.
- Citrus scab Raised, corky scabs on young fruit and leaves, mostly in humid coastal areas.
- Collar rot Bark at the base of the trunk cracks and oozes gum. Keep mulch and soil off the trunk and avoid waterlogging.
Common questions
Why is my lemon tree dropping fruit?
Citrus naturally shed many tiny fruit after flowering, and that is normal. Heavier drop usually comes from the tree drying out or getting heat stressed while fruit is setting, waterlogged roots, or a big dose of nitrogen fertiliser while it is in flower. Water deeply and regularly through spring and summer, and feed before or after flowering, not during it.
Why are my lemon tree leaves turning yellow?
Older leaves turning evenly pale yellow usually mean the tree needs nitrogen. Young leaves yellow between green veins point to a shortage of iron or manganese, often in alkaline soil. Yellowing can also come from wet, poorly drained soil damaging the roots, so check drainage before adding fertiliser.
What are the lumps on my lemon tree branches?
Woody swellings on young stems are citrus gall wasp. Cut them out between April and June, or slice the top off each gall in mid to late winter, and bag the cuttings in the sun for a month before disposal so the wasps cannot emerge and spread.
How long does a lemon tree take to fruit?
A grafted tree usually starts cropping 2 to 3 years after planting. Trees grown from seed can take many years and may not fruit true to type.
Can I grow a lemon tree in a pot?
Yes. Choose a dwarf tree or a Meyer, a pot at least 50 cm wide, and quality potting mix suitable for citrus. Water more often than a tree in the ground and feed lightly through the warm months.
When should I feed my lemon tree?
Feed with a citrus fertiliser in late winter or early spring, in summer and in early autumn, at the packet rate, and water it in. Avoid a heavy feed while the tree is in full flower.
Why are my lemons dry or thick skinned?
Too much nitrogen fertiliser and too little water while the fruit is growing both give thick-skinned, dry fruit. Fruit left on the tree for many months can also dry out.
Sources we checked: NSW DPI: Growing lemons in Australia, a production manual (establishment); NSW DPI: Growing lemons in Australia, a production manual (nutrition); NSW DPI: Caring for young citrus trees; Agriculture Victoria: Citrus gall wasp; Gardening Australia: Citrus Care; Gardening Australia: FAQs, Falling Lemons.