How to grow Grape in Australia
A grapevine on a pergola, fence or wire trellis gives shade in summer, sun in winter and bunches of fruit in late summer and autumn. Vines are deciduous, hardy and long lived, and they crop best in climates with a cool winter and a warm, dry summer. The keys are a strong support, a hard prune every winter and an open canopy that lets air move through to keep mildew down.
📖 Our full guide: How to Grow Grapes in Your Backyard
At a glance
When to plant by region
| Region | When to plant | Regional note |
|---|---|---|
| South East Queensland | June to August | |
| Northern Rivers NSW | June to August | |
| Sydney & Coastal NSW | June to August | |
| Melbourne & Victoria | June to August | |
| Adelaide & SA | June to August | |
| Perth & WA | June to August | |
| Tasmania | June to August | Plant Jun to Aug. This is cool-climate wine country. Early table varieties ripen on a warm sheltered wall. |
| Canberra & ACT | June to August | |
| North Queensland | Not suited | Not viable. No winter dormancy and relentless fungal pressure through the wet season. |
| Darwin & Top End | Not suited | Not viable for home gardens. Table grapes need winter dormancy that Darwin never provides. |
Where to plant
Plant grapes in full sun with free-draining soil and a strong support already in place: a wire trellis, fence, pergola or arbour. Vines do not need rich soil, and too much feeding gives leaf at the expense of fruit. Good air flow matters, as powdery and downy mildew thrive on crowded vines in still, humid air.
Grape phylloxera, a tiny insect that kills vines by feeding on the roots, is present only in parts of Victoria and New South Wales. South Australia, Western Australia, Tasmania and the Northern Territory are phylloxera free, and moving vines, cuttings, grapes and soil between zones is tightly controlled. Buy vines from a local, certified nursery and do not bring cuttings in from another region.
- Adelaide, Perth, Melbourne, Canberra and Sydney: plant from June to August. Hot, dry summers suit grapes well; in Sydney's humid summers, mildew needs watching.
- Hobart: plant from June to August. This is cool-climate wine country, and early table varieties ripen on a warm, sheltered wall. Gardening Australia notes that in Tasmania, French wine varieties cope better because many others do not ripen.
- South East Queensland and the Northern Rivers: plant from June to August. Humid, wet summers bring heavy mildew pressure, so choose a sunny, airy spot and keep the canopy open.
- North Queensland and Darwin: our calendar marks these as unsuitable, as there is no winter dormancy and fungal pressure through the wet is relentless.
Choosing a variety
Table grapes are grown for eating fresh, and seedless types such as Flame Seedless and Thompson Seedless, the sultana grape, are popular. Wine varieties such as Shiraz and Verdelho can also be eaten or grown for shade. In cool areas choose early-ripening varieties. Where phylloxera is present, grafted vines on phylloxera-tolerant rootstock are the safe choice.
How to plant
- Set up the trellis, wires or pergola before planting.
- Plant bare-rooted or potted vines in winter while dormant, at the same depth they were growing, about 2 m apart along the support.
- Water in well and mulch, keeping the mulch clear of the trunk.
- After planting, cut the vine back to two or three buds. Train the strongest new shoot up the support as the trunk in the first summer.
- Water young vines regularly through their first summer.
Watering and feeding
Water young vines regularly until they establish. Established vines need deep but infrequent watering, mainly in dry spells while the fruit is swelling. Avoid wetting the leaves and bunches, which encourages mildew.
Feed lightly. A little compost or a balanced fertiliser in late winter or early spring is enough for most vines. Heavy feeding gives lush leaves, a crowded canopy and more disease.
Pruning and care
Grapes fruit on the new shoots that grow each spring from last year's wood, so a hard prune every winter is what keeps a vine productive. Prune while the vine is dormant, before the sap starts rising in spring. The job does not have to be done in one go.
- A simple winter method from Gardening Australia: pick the three healthiest canes, remove all others back to the trunk, shorten two of the canes to about ten buds each and tie them along the wire in opposite directions, then remove the third, spare cane once the two are safely tied. The finished vine looks like a letter T.
- Summer prune lightly: count three leaves past a bunch of flowers or young fruit and cut there, and remove shoots that carry no fruit. This lets sun and air reach the bunches.
- Train new shoots while they are green and flexible, spreading them evenly over the support so they do not tangle.
- Thin leaves around the bunches in humid areas to improve air flow.
Harvesting
Grapes ripen from about January to April, depending on variety and region. They do not ripen any further once picked, so do not harvest early. Check that the bunches have reached the size and colour you expect, then taste a grape or two before cutting the whole bunch with secateurs.
Store picked bunches in the fridge and eat them soon. Young, tender vine leaves can be picked in early summer for dolmades.
Growing in pots
A grapevine can be grown in a large pot, at least 50 cm wide and deep, with a frame or trellis fixed in or behind the pot. Use a quality potting mix, water regularly through summer, feed lightly in spring, and prune hard every winter to keep it compact.
Propagation and saving seed
Grapes root readily from hardwood cuttings of dormant canes taken at winter pruning. Only take cuttings from your own vines or local ones, and never move cuttings, vines or soil out of a phylloxera infested zone.
Companion planting
Grapevines need their root zone mulched and free of strong competition. Low flowering plants nearby can bring in beneficial insects.
Good companions
- Hyssop A low flowering herb whose blue flowers draw bees and beneficial insects.
- Clover A low groundcover that adds nitrogen and feeds bees. Keep it back from the trunk.
- Basil A summer herb for the sunny edge of the bed. Its value as a companion is traditional rather than proven.
- Geranium A hardy flowering plant that copes with the same dry, sunny conditions under a vine.
Pests and diseases
Fungal diseases are the main problem with grapes, especially in humid areas. Birds take ripe fruit everywhere.
Pests to watch for
- Birds Grapes pecked and bunches stripped as they ripen. Net the whole vine or bag each bunch. Bunches hanging under a pergola or arbour are partly protected, as birds rarely fly in under a structure.
- Grapevine moth Large caterpillars, banded black, white and orange, chewing the leaves in spring and summer. Pick them off by hand.
- Mealybug White, cottony clusters under the bark and in the bunches, with sticky honeydew.
- Phylloxera A tiny root-feeding insect that weakens and kills vines over several years. Present only in parts of Victoria and New South Wales. Report suspected cases to your state biosecurity department.
Diseases to watch for
- Powdery mildew A whitish-grey powder on the leaves and fruit, which slows growth and ripening. Thin leaves and shoots for air and sun; potassium bicarbonate sprays help when symptoms first appear.
- Downy mildew Yellow, oily-looking spots on the upper side of the leaves with white fluffy growth beneath, after warm, wet weather. Keep the canopy open and avoid wetting the leaves.
- Botrytis Grey, fuzzy mould rotting the bunches, mostly in wet weather near harvest. Remove affected bunches and keep air moving.
- Black spot Small dark spots on leaves, shoots and berries in wet spring weather. Prune out affected wood in winter.
Common questions
When should I prune my grapevine?
In winter while the vine is dormant, before the sap rises in spring. Keep two strong canes of about ten buds each tied along the wire and remove the rest. A light summer prune, cutting three leaves past each bunch, helps the fruit ripen.
How do I stop birds eating my grapes?
Net the whole vine or bag each bunch as the grapes start to colour. Grapes hanging under a pergola or arbour are partly protected, as birds rarely fly in under a structure.
What is the white powder on my grape leaves?
Powdery mildew. Thin the leaves and shoots to let in sun and air, and spray with potassium bicarbonate when symptoms first appear, repeating every two weeks, but not in the heat of the day.
How do I know when grapes are ready?
Grapes do not ripen after picking, so wait until the bunches reach their full size and colour, then taste one or two before cutting the bunch.
How long does a grapevine take to fruit?
Usually a small crop in the second or third year after planting, increasing as the vine matures.
Can I take grape cuttings from a friend's vine?
Only if you live in the same area. Grape phylloxera is present in parts of Victoria and New South Wales, and moving vines, cuttings, grapes or soil between zones is tightly controlled. Never bring cuttings into a phylloxera-free state or region.
Can I grow grapes in Queensland?
In south east Queensland, yes, but humid summers bring heavy mildew pressure. Plant in winter in the sunniest, airiest spot, keep the canopy open, and avoid wetting the leaves. Grapes are not suited to the tropics.
Sources we checked: Gardening Australia: Grapevine care; Gardening Australia: Pruning and training grapes; Gardening Australia: Pruning grapevines; Vinehealth Australia: Grape phylloxera.