How to grow Orange Tree in Australia
An orange tree is a long-lived backyard citrus that gives fresh fruit for months. Navel oranges ripen through winter and into spring, and Valencias hang on the tree into summer, so the two together cover much of the year. Like all citrus, oranges need sun, free-draining soil, regular water and feeding, and protection from frost while young.
📖 Our full guide: How to Grow Oranges in Australia
At a glance
When to plant by region
| Region | When to plant | Regional note |
|---|---|---|
| South East Queensland | March to September | |
| Northern Rivers NSW | March to September | |
| Sydney & Coastal NSW | March to September | |
| Melbourne & Victoria | September to November | Plant Sep to Nov once frosts pass, in full sun against a north facing wall. Navels crop well in the warmer inner suburbs. |
| Adelaide & SA | March and April, September and October | Plant Mar to Apr or Sep to Oct, avoiding frosty midwinter and summer heat. Adelaide grows excellent navels; water deeply in summer. |
| Perth & WA | March to September | |
| Tasmania | October and November | Marginal. Plant Oct to Nov against a warm north facing wall. Navels ripen slowly and stay tart after cool summers. |
| Canberra & ACT | November | Marginal. Plant in November after the last frost in a warm north facing spot, and wrap young trees in frost cloth over winter. |
| North Queensland | May to September | Plant May to Sep in the dry season with regular watering, so trees settle before the build up. Skins stay green in the tropics but the fruit is sweet. |
| Darwin & Top End | May to August | Plant May to Aug in the dry season with regular watering, so trees settle before the build up. Fruit is sweet but skins stay green. |
Not to be confused with: Blood orange, a type of orange with red flesh, and Mandarin, a smaller, easy-peel citrus.
Where to plant
Plant in full sun, out of cold, strong wind, in soil that drains freely. Like all citrus, oranges have shallow roots that die in waterlogged soil, so avoid soggy spots and plant on a raised mound if your soil is heavy clay. Keep grass and weeds out of the root zone, roughly to the edge of the canopy.
Young citrus trees are damaged by frost. In cold districts plant in spring after the last frost, choose the warmest spot in the garden, such as in front of a north-facing wall, and cover young trees on frosty nights.
- South East Queensland, the Northern Rivers, Sydney and Perth: oranges grow well. Washington Navel and Valencia are the reliable choices.
- Adelaide: grows excellent navels; plant in autumn or spring and water deeply through summer.
- Melbourne: plant in spring once frosts pass, in full sun against a north-facing wall. Navels crop well in the warmer inner suburbs.
- Canberra and Hobart: marginal. Plant in late spring after the last frost in the warmest spot, and wrap young trees in frost cloth over winter. Fruit can stay tart after cool summers.
- North Queensland and Darwin: plant in the dry season and water regularly so trees settle before the build up. The fruit is sweet, but the skin often stays green in the tropics.
Choosing a variety
| Variety | Notes |
|---|---|
| Washington Navel | The classic seedless eating orange, easy to peel, ripening through winter into spring |
| Navelina | An early navel that forms a small tree, suited to small gardens |
| Lane's Late | A late-ripening navel that extends the navel season |
| Valencia | The main juicing orange; fruit holds on the tree for months into summer. A Valencia and a navel together give fruit for much of the year |
| Cara Cara | A navel with pink flesh; still being evaluated under Australian conditions |
Buy a grafted tree. Dwarfing rootstock keeps it small enough for a pot or courtyard.
How to plant
- Plant in autumn or spring in most areas, or in late spring after the last frost in cold areas.
- Water the tree in its pot well before planting.
- Dig a hole wider than the pot but no deeper. On heavy or shallow soil, build a wide raised mound and plant into it.
- Plant at the same depth as in the pot, with the graft union well above the soil.
- Water in deeply and mulch, keeping the mulch 10 to 15 cm clear of the trunk to prevent collar rot.
- Keep the soil moist while the tree establishes, which usually means watering at least weekly.
Watering and feeding
Oranges have shallow roots and need more regular water than many fruit trees, or the fruit loses juiciness. Water deeply, then let the top few centimetres dry before watering again. Water most of all from flowering until the fruit has set and while it is sizing in summer. Never let the roots sit in soggy soil.
Feed with a citrus fertiliser in late winter or early spring, again in summer and again in early autumn, at the packet rate, spread around the edge of the canopy and watered in. Young trees need only small amounts, little and often.
Pruning and care through the year
- Pick off most fruit in the first year or two so the young tree builds a strong frame.
- Prune lightly: remove dead wood, crossing branches, branches touching the ground and any shoots from below the graft. Dead twigs carry melanose.
- Citrus gall wasp: cut out swollen galls on stems between April and June, or slice the top off each gall in mid to late winter, and bag the cuttings in the sun for a month before disposal.
- Bronze orange bug: knock young bugs into a bucket of soapy water in winter, wearing eye protection and gloves, as they squirt a liquid that burns.
Harvesting
Oranges do not ripen further after picking, but they hold well on the tree, so pick as you need them. Colour is not a reliable guide, especially in the tropics where ripe fruit can stay green. Mature oranges have smoother skin and a little give when squeezed on the tree; hard, rough fruit is not ready and tends to be dry. Taste one before picking more.
Navels ripen from late autumn through winter into spring; Valencias ripen later and hang on the tree into summer. Twist gently or cut the stalk. Picked oranges keep for two to three weeks in the fridge crisper.
Growing in pots
Choose a dwarf tree on dwarfing rootstock and a pot at least 50 cm wide with good drainage, filled with premium potting mix suitable for citrus. Potted citrus dry out and use up nutrients faster than trees in the ground, so water more often and feed lightly but regularly through the warm months. Watch for scale and leaf miner.
Using it
Eat navels fresh, as they are easy to peel and seedless. Valencias are the best juicing oranges. Use the zest in baking and the fruit in marmalade.
Companion planting
Citrus do best with their root zone clear of competition. Low plants that feed the soil are fine near the edge of the canopy.
Good companions
- Comfrey Its leaves can be cut and laid under the tree as a mulch that feeds the soil. Keep it away from the trunk, and note it is hard to remove once planted.
Keep apart
Avoid planting these close to orange tree.
- Lawn and weeds Grass and weeds in the root zone compete with the shallow citrus roots for water and food.
Pests and diseases
Most orange problems in home gardens come from insects on new growth and from poor drainage.
Pests to watch for
- Citrus gall wasp Lumpy, woody swellings on young stems, visible from autumn. Prune or peel them before the wasps emerge in spring.
- Bronze orange bug Shield-shaped bugs, green to orange when young and bronze-black as adults, on new shoots. Flowers and young fruit drop.
- Leaf miner Silvery, winding trails in new leaves, which curl and distort. Mostly cosmetic on established trees.
- Scale Small bumps on leaves and stems, sticky honeydew, black sooty mould and ants.
Diseases to watch for
- Melanose Small, raised, dark brown spots on leaves and fruit, spread from dead twigs in wet weather.
- Citrus scab Raised, corky scabs on young fruit and leaves, mostly in humid coastal areas.
Common questions
When are oranges ripe?
Navels ripen from late autumn through winter into spring, and Valencias later, into summer. Ripe oranges have smoother skin and a little give when squeezed; hard, rough fruit is not ready. Colour is not reliable, particularly in the tropics, so taste one first.
Why are my oranges dry inside?
Hard, immature fruit picked too early is often dry, and fruit left on the tree far too long can also dry out. Lack of water while the fruit is sizing gives less juicy fruit, so water deeply and regularly in summer.
Why are my oranges still green?
In warm and tropical areas oranges can be ripe and sweet while the skin stays green. Use taste and feel, not colour.
What is the difference between navel and Valencia oranges?
Navels are seedless, easy to peel and best for eating, ripening through winter. Valencias are the main juicing orange and ripen later, holding on the tree into summer. Growing both gives fruit for much of the year.
Can I grow an orange tree in a pot?
Yes, choose a dwarf tree on dwarfing rootstock and a pot at least 50 cm wide with premium citrus potting mix. Water more often than in the ground and feed lightly through the warm months.
How long does an orange tree take to fruit?
A grafted tree usually gives its first real crop 2 to 3 years after planting. Pick off most fruit in the first year or two so the tree builds a strong frame.
Why is my orange tree dropping fruit?
Citrus naturally shed many tiny fruit after flowering. Heavier drop usually comes from the tree drying out or getting heat stressed while fruit is setting, or from waterlogged roots. Water deeply and regularly from flowering through summer.
Sources we checked: NSW DPI: Growing lemons in Australia, a production manual (establishment; general citrus planting advice); NSW DPI: Caring for young citrus trees; Agriculture Victoria: Citrus gall wasp; Gardening Australia: Harvesting Citrus; Gardening Australia: Small-Growing Citrus; Local Food Connect (Robin Gale-Baker): Olives and oranges; Daleys Fruit Tree Nursery: Orange varieties.