How to grow Blood Orange in Australia
Blood oranges are sweet oranges with red flesh and juice, coloured by anthocyanin, the same pigment that colours pomegranates. The colour only develops with cold nights while the fruit ripens, so the red is strongest in cooler southern and inland gardens. Otherwise they are grown just like any other orange.
📖 Our full guide: How to Grow Blood Orange in Australia
At a glance
When to plant by region
| Region | When to plant | Regional note |
|---|---|---|
| South East Queensland | March to September | |
| Northern Rivers NSW | March to September | |
| Sydney & Coastal NSW | March to September | |
| Melbourne & Victoria | September to November | Plant Sep to Nov after frost. Cold Melbourne nights colour the flesh a deep red. |
| Adelaide & SA | March and April, September and October | Plant Mar to Apr or Sep to Oct. Cool winter nights colour the flesh well. |
| Perth & WA | March to September | |
| Tasmania | October and November | Marginal. Plant Oct to Nov on the warmest wall. Cold nights give great colour but the fruit ripens slowly. |
| Canberra & ACT | November | Marginal. Cold nights colour the flesh deeply, but plant in November after the last frost and cover young trees in winter. |
| North Queensland | May to September | The tree grows, but without cool nights the flesh stays orange. Plant May to Sep in the dry, or choose a navel. |
| Darwin & Top End | May to August | Without cool nights the flesh stays orange. Plant May to Aug in the dry if you still want one, or choose a navel. |
Where to plant
Grow blood oranges in full sun in well-drained soil, sheltered from strong, cold wind. Like all citrus they hate wet feet, so plant on a mound if your soil is heavy or drains slowly, and keep mulch off the trunk.
The red colour needs chilling. Western Australian trials found good red colour in Arnold and Tarocco types at cooler inland Bindoon, but poor colour at warmer coastal sites. In warm climates the tree grows and fruits well, but the flesh may stay mostly orange.
- Melbourne, Adelaide and inland areas: ideal, as cold winter nights colour the flesh deep red. In Melbourne plant from September to November after frost; in Adelaide in autumn or spring.
- Canberra and Hobart: marginal. Colour is excellent, but plant after the last frost on the warmest, most sheltered wall and cover young trees in winter. Fruit ripens slowly in Hobart.
- Sydney, Perth, South East Queensland and the Northern Rivers: trees grow well, but colour is more variable; expect partly red flesh.
- North Queensland and Darwin: the tree grows, but without cool nights the flesh stays orange. A navel orange is a better choice there.
Choosing a variety
- Arnold Blood and Ruby Blood are older varieties widely grown in Australia.
- Tarocco types (such as Tarocco Ippolito, Tarocco Meli and Tarocco Rosso) are newer. Tarocco Meli did best of the Tarocco types in Western Australian trials.
- Choose a dwarf tree for a pot or a small garden.
How to plant
- Plant in spring once frost has passed, or in autumn in frost-free areas.
- Check the roots and tease out any that circle the pot.
- Plant at the same depth as in the pot, with the graft union well above the soil. On heavy soil, build a mound first.
- Water in deeply, then mulch, keeping the mulch a hand's width away from the trunk.
- Water at least weekly while the tree establishes.
Watering and feeding
Give a deep soak rather than a light sprinkle, then let the top few centimetres dry before watering again. Water regularly through spring and summer, especially from flowering until the fruit has set and in hot, dry spells. Never leave the soil soggy.
Feed with a citrus fertiliser in late winter or early spring and again in summer and early autumn, at the packet rate, spread around the edge of the canopy and watered in. Too much nitrogen gives thick-skinned, less juicy fruit.
Pruning and care through the year
- Remove most of the fruit in the first year or two so the young tree builds a strong frame.
- Prune lightly to remove dead wood, crossing branches and any shoots from below the graft. Dead twigs carry melanose.
- Cut out citrus gall wasp swellings on young stems between April and June, before the wasps emerge in spring.
- Wear gloves and eye protection when knocking bronze orange bugs into soapy water in winter; they squirt a liquid that burns.
Harvesting
Blood oranges ripen from winter into spring; the exact time depends on the variety and the climate. Arnold Blood matured in September and October in the Western Australian trials at Bindoon. Taste a fruit to check: colour on the skin is not a reliable sign of ripeness, and the flesh colour deepens the longer the fruit hangs in cool weather.
Cut or twist fruit off with the button attached. Oranges keep for a week or two at room temperature and longer in the fridge.
Growing in pots
Choose a dwarf tree and a pot at least 50 cm wide with a quality potting mix for citrus. Water regularly, feed little and often through the warm months, and stand the pot in full sun.
Companion planting
Keep the area under a citrus tree mulched and free of plants that compete hard for water. A few low herbs and flowers at the edge of the canopy bring in bees.
Good companions
- Comfrey Grown near the tree, its leaves can be cut and laid as mulch under the canopy.
Pests and diseases
Blood oranges share the pests and diseases of other citrus. Most problems are insects on new growth and poor drainage.
Pests to watch for
- Citrus gall wasp Lumpy, woody swellings on young stems, visible from autumn. Prune them off before the wasps emerge in spring.
- Bronze orange bug Shield-shaped bugs, green to orange when young and bronze-black as adults, on new shoots. Flowers and young fruit drop.
- Leaf miner Silvery, winding trails in new leaves, which curl and distort. Mostly cosmetic on established trees.
- Scale Small bumps on leaves and stems, sticky honeydew, black sooty mould and ants.
Diseases to watch for
- Melanose Small, raised, dark brown spots on leaves and fruit, spread from dead twigs in wet weather.
- Citrus scab Raised, corky scabs on young fruit and leaves, mostly in humid coastal areas.
- Collar rot Bark at the base of the trunk cracks and oozes gum. Keep mulch and soil off the trunk and avoid waterlogging.
Common questions
Why is my blood orange not red inside?
The red pigment needs cold nights while the fruit ripens. In warm coastal or tropical gardens the flesh may stay orange or only partly red. Leaving fruit on the tree longer in cool weather deepens the colour.
Where do blood oranges grow best in Australia?
In areas with cold winter nights, such as Melbourne, Adelaide, Canberra and inland regions. They also grow well in warmer areas, but the flesh colours less.
When are blood oranges ready to pick?
From winter into spring, depending on the variety and the climate. Taste one to check, as skin colour is not a reliable guide.
How long does a blood orange tree take to fruit?
A grafted tree usually gives a few fruit in its second or third year. Picking off most of the fruit in the first year or two helps the tree build a strong frame.
Can I grow a blood orange in a pot?
Yes, choose a dwarf tree and a pot at least 50 cm wide. Water regularly, feed through the warm months and keep it in full sun.
What is the best blood orange variety?
Arnold Blood and Ruby Blood are long-established in Australia. Newer Tarocco types, such as Tarocco Meli, colour well in cooler areas and performed well in Western Australian trials.
Sources we checked: WA DPIRD: Orange varieties for Western Australia, other common oranges; WA DPIRD: Tarocco Meli blood orange; NSW DPI: Caring for young citrus trees; Agriculture Victoria: Citrus gall wasp; Gardening Australia: Citrus Care.