How to grow Banana in Australia
Bananas are giant herbs, not trees: each stem fruits once, then dies and is replaced by a sucker. They need warmth, shelter, lots of water and heavy feeding, and they fruit year round in the tropics and subtropics. Because of serious diseases, bananas are regulated in Queensland and New South Wales, so start with clean plants from an approved supplier.
📖 Our full guide: How to Grow Banana in Australia
At a glance
When to plant by region
| Region | When to plant | Regional note |
|---|---|---|
| South East Queensland | September to March | |
| Northern Rivers NSW | September to March | |
| Sydney & Coastal NSW | September to March | Marginal. Best in warm, sheltered coastal and inner suburban gardens. Western Sydney frosts damage the leaves and cool winters slow fruiting, so plant suckers in spring. |
| Melbourne & Victoria | Not suited | Unlikely to fruit in Melbourne; fruit never matures before winter frost. Possible only in warm microclimate with windbreak. |
| Adelaide & SA | Not suited | Not viable in Adelaide. Winters are too cool for fruit. Ornamental clumps survive only in warm sheltered courtyards. |
| Perth & WA | September and October | Mediterranean: viable in warm Perth coastal microclimates only. Sow Sept to Oct. Unsuitable for Adelaide Hills and inland Perth. |
| Tasmania | Not suited | Unsuitable. Tropical. Fruit can never mature in the Tasmanian climate. |
| Canberra & ACT | Not suited | Banana unsuitable for Canberra: tropical, frost-intolerant. Consider fig, cherry, or other cold-hardy fruiting plants. |
| North Queensland | September to March | Spring/wet season. Banana is most valuable horticultural crop in Far North QLD. Produces year-round. |
| Darwin & Top End | September to March | Spring/wet season. Banana is most valuable horticultural crop in Far North QLD. Produces year-round. |
Where to plant
Plant bananas in full sun in rich, moisture-holding soil that still drains, with shelter from wind, which shreds the leaves. They are hungry and thirsty plants and do best in warm, humid weather.
Banana bunchy top virus occurs in a small part of South East Queensland and northern New South Wales, and Panama disease is spread on soil and plants. Buy banana plants only from an accredited nursery or approved supplier, never take suckers from a neighbour, and do not move plants or soil between properties. Rules on planting differ between states and change from time to time, so check with Biosecurity Queensland or NSW DPI before you plant.
- North Queensland and Darwin: plant in spring or as the wet season begins. Bananas fruit year round.
- South East Queensland and the Northern Rivers: plant in spring and summer. This is bunchy top country, so check plants often.
- Sydney: marginal. Best in warm, sheltered coastal and inner suburban gardens; frost in western Sydney damages the leaves and cool winters slow fruiting.
- Perth: possible in warm, sheltered coastal spots, planted in September or October.
- Melbourne, Adelaide, Canberra and Hobart: winters are too cool for fruit to mature.
Choosing a variety
- Lady Finger has small, sweet fruit with thick skin and is widely grown in home gardens.
- Dwarf Ducasse is compact, very tasty and ideal for small gardens.
- Gold Finger is a hardy commercial type, and Cavendish is the familiar supermarket banana.
- Bluggoe is a large cooking banana.
How to plant
- Get a sucker or tissue-cultured plant from an approved source.
- Dig plenty of compost and manure into a sunny, sheltered spot.
- Plant at the same depth as the pot or slightly deeper, and water in well.
- Mulch thickly, keeping the mulch a little away from the stem.
Watering and feeding
Bananas need a lot of water in warm weather. Keep the soil constantly moist but never waterlogged, and mulch thickly to hold the moisture in.
Feed heavily through the warm months with a fertiliser rich in potassium, or with manure: Gardening Australia suggests about 3 litres of poultry manure every six weeks except in winter, covered with compost so heavy rain does not wash it away.
Pruning and care through the year
- Keep three stems per clump: the biggest (the leader) and two smaller followers. Remove the other suckers so the energy goes into fruit.
- After a stem has fruited it dies. Cut it off close to the ground so banana weevil borers do not breed in the old base.
- Bag developing bunches to protect them from flying foxes and birds.
- Check the youngest leaves often for bunchy top symptoms. If you suspect it, do not cut or move the plant; call the Bunchy Top Hotline on 1800 068 371.
Harvesting
A bunch is ready when the fruit is plump and rounded and the dried flower remnants at the tips brush off easily. Cut the whole bunch with a pruning saw, or cut off individual hands as they fill to avoid a glut. Ripen them indoors in a dry, shady place with a steady temperature; they are usually ready to eat in one to two weeks.
Banana sap stains clothing permanently, so wear old clothes. Freeze, dry or bake with any surplus.
Companion planting
Bananas are greedy for water and food, so companions should cope with shade and rich, moist soil.
Good companions
- Sweet potato A spreading groundcover that shades the soil and holds moisture around the clump.
Pests and diseases
The most serious banana problems are diseases that are regulated by law. Report suspected bunchy top or Panama disease rather than treating it yourself.
Pests to watch for
- Aphids Small dark banana aphids clustered at the base of the stem and in the crown. They spread bunchy top virus.
- Banana weevil borer Tunnels in the base of the stem and the corm, with weak plants that topple. Remove old fruited stems.
- Flying foxes Scratched and eaten fruit on the bunch. Bag bunches and ripen fruit indoors.
Diseases to watch for
- Bunchy top virus Dark green dot-dash streaks along the leaf veins and midrib, and new leaves that are short, narrow, upright and bunched. Report it; do not cut the plant.
- Panama disease Older leaves yellow and collapse around the stem, and the stem splits at the base. A soil-borne fungus, so never move plants or soil.
- Yellow Sigatoka Pale yellow streaks on the leaves that turn into brown spots with yellow halos, worst in wet weather. Remove badly spotted leaves.
Common questions
Do I need a permit to grow bananas at home?
Bananas are regulated in Queensland and New South Wales because of bunchy top virus and Panama disease. Buy plants only from an accredited nursery or approved supplier, do not move suckers between properties, and check the current planting rules with Biosecurity Queensland or NSW DPI before you plant, as they differ between areas.
Can I take a banana sucker from my neighbour?
It is not a good idea and may be against the rules where you live. Suckers can carry bunchy top virus or Panama disease without showing symptoms. Use clean plants from an approved source instead.
How long does a banana plant take to fruit?
Usually about 12 to 18 months from planting, depending on the variety and how warm it is. Each stem fruits once, then a follower sucker takes over.
Should I cut down my banana plant after harvest?
Yes. A stem that has fruited will not fruit again. Cut it off close to the ground, which also stops banana weevil borers breeding in the old base, and let the follower suckers grow on.
How many suckers should a banana plant have?
Keep three: the biggest stem as the leader and two smaller followers. Remove the rest so the clump puts its energy into fruit rather than leaves.
When should I harvest bananas?
When the fruit is plump and rounded and the dried flower tips brush off easily. Cut the bunch, or individual hands, and ripen them indoors in a shady spot for one to two weeks.
Can bananas grow in Melbourne or Adelaide?
Not for fruit. The winters are too cool for a bunch to mature. They are sometimes grown as ornamental foliage in very warm, sheltered courtyards.
Sources we checked: Business Queensland: Banana bunchy top virus; Business Queensland: Growing bananas in Queensland; Australian Banana Growers' Council: Banana bunchy top; Gardening Australia: Backyard Bananas; Gardening Australia: Harvesting Bananas.