How to grow Scarlet Runner Bean in Australia
Scarlet runner bean (Phaseolus coccineus) is a vigorous climbing bean with bright red flowers, long flat pods and large, speckled purple and black seeds. It is a bean for cool climates: in mild areas the roots can survive winter and reshoot for several years, but in hot weather it flowers without setting many pods.
📖 Our full guide: How to Grow Scarlet Runner Bean in Australia
At a glance
When to sow by region
| Region | When to sow | Regional note |
|---|---|---|
| South East Queensland | March and April | Sow in March and April so plants flower in the cooler months. In warm weather runner beans often flower without setting pods, so spring sowings that run into summer heat crop poorly. |
| Northern Rivers NSW | March and April, September and October | Sow in March and April and again in September and October. Starting spring sowings in September protects them in hinterland frost pockets. Autumn sowings crop best, once the heat is off. |
| Sydney & Coastal NSW | September to November | Frost free, but runner beans drop their flowers without setting pods above 30 degrees. Sow Sep to Nov so the first crop sets before the summer heat; plants often crop again in autumn. |
| Melbourne & Victoria | September to November | Classic Melbourne bean. Cooler conditions than standard beans. Spring sow only. |
| Adelaide & SA | September to November | Frost tender. Sow Sep to Nov after the last frost; flowers drop in hot weather, so early sowings set the most pods. |
| Perth & WA | September to November | Frost free, but hot, dry summers make runner beans drop their flowers without setting pods. Sow Sep to Nov where plants get afternoon shade and water deeply, so the first crop sets before the heat; plants often crop again in autumn. |
| Tasmania | October to December | Sow Oct to Dec. Runner beans love cool summers and crop for years from the same roots. A genuine Tasmanian winner. |
| Canberra & ACT | November and December | Frost tender. Sow Nov to Dec after the last frost. Crowns can overwinter under mulch and reshoot in spring. |
| North Queensland | Not suited | Not viable. Needs cool conditions. |
| Darwin & Top End | Not suited | Not viable. Needs cool conditions. |
Not to be confused with: Climbing French beans, which are a different species. Runner beans have larger, rougher pods, showier flowers and need bees to set pods, and they cope better with cool weather.
Where to plant
Grow runner beans in full sun in rich, deep, moisture-retentive soil, against a tall, sturdy frame, fence or wigwam. The vines grow to 3 m or more and are heavy when cropping.
Heat is the main limit. The flowers drop without setting pods in hot weather (above about 30°C) and in dry soil, so cool and mild areas give the best crops. Gardening Australia's advice is blunt: in a warm climate they will grow, but often only flower.
- Hobart and Melbourne: classic runner bean country. Sow from September to November in Melbourne and October to December in Hobart. In Hobart they can crop for years from the same roots.
- Canberra: sow in November and December after the last frost. Mulch the roots heavily in winter and they may reshoot in spring.
- Sydney, Adelaide and Perth: sow from September to November so the first pods set before the summer heat; plants often crop again in autumn. In Perth, give them afternoon shade and deep watering.
- South East Queensland: sow in March and April so plants flower in the cooler months. Gardening Australia warns that in warm climates runner beans mostly just flower, and spring sowings run into summer heat. Northern Rivers: sow in March and April, and again in September and October in the cooler hinterland.
- North Queensland and Darwin: not suited.
How to plant
- Put up a strong support at least 2 to 2.5 m tall before sowing.
- Wait until the soil has warmed to at least 12°C and the frost has passed.
- Sow seed 4 to 5 cm deep and about 15 to 20 cm apart along the base of the support, or sow three seeds at each pole and keep the strongest one.
- Water in once, then water lightly until the shoots appear, as the big seeds can rot in cold, soggy soil.
- Guide the young shoots onto the support. They soon twine up on their own.
Watering and feeding
Water deeply and regularly, especially once the plants start flowering. Dry roots are one of the main reasons the flowers drop without forming pods. A thick mulch keeps the soil cool and moist.
Dig in compost before sowing. Beans make some of their own nitrogen, so they need only light feeding; too much nitrogen gives lots of leaf and fewer pods.
Pruning and care through the year
- Pinch out the growing tip when the vine reaches the top of its support, so it branches and crops lower down.
- Runner beans need bees to set pods. Plant flowers nearby and avoid spraying while they are in flower.
- In hot spells, watering in the evening and some afternoon shade help the flowers set.
- In mild areas, cut the vines down in late autumn and mulch the roots. They can reshoot in spring and crop again for several years.
Harvesting
Pick pods when they are young, tender and snap cleanly, before the beans inside swell, usually about 20 to 25 cm long. Pick every two to three days. Pods left to mature tell the plant to stop flowering.
Young pods keep three or four days in the fridge. For dry beans, leave pods on the vine until they are dry and papery, then shell the seeds and store them in a sealed jar.
Growing in pots
Climbing runner beans need a big container, at least 45 cm deep and about 75 cm wide, with a wigwam or trellis. Pots dry out quickly, so water every day in warm weather. Dwarf runner bean types suit pots 30 to 45 cm wide.
Using it
Slice young pods and steam, boil or stir-fry them as you would green beans. Mature fresh beans can be shelled and cooked, and dried beans are used like other dried beans in stews and soups.
Like kidney beans, raw or undercooked runner beans contain natural toxins. Always cook pods, and soak dried beans and boil them well before eating.
Saving seed
Leave some of the best pods on the vine until they are dry and rattle. Shell the beans, dry them for another week or two, and store them in a cool, dry place for next season. Runner beans can cross with other runner bean varieties nearby, so keep varieties apart if you want them true.
Varieties
- Scarlet Runner
- Painted Lady
Companion planting
Runner beans are tall, so plant them where their shade will not fall on sun-loving crops, and give them neighbours that use the space at their feet.
Good companions
- Corn Part of the traditional three sisters planting; runner beans can climb sturdy corn, though a separate frame gives a heavier crop.
- Lettuce Grows happily in the light shade at the base of the bean frame in warm weather.
- Radish A quick crop for the space along the base of the support while the beans are small.
- Marigold Bright flowers that bring in pollinators and beneficial insects.
Keep apart
Avoid planting these close to scarlet runner bean.
Pests and diseases
Runner beans share the common bean pests. Healthy plants with steady water handle most of them.
Pests to watch for
- Bean fly Seedlings wilt and stems swell and crack near the soil, worst in warm weather in Queensland and New South Wales.
- Aphids Clusters of black aphids on shoot tips and flower stalks. Hose off or squash.
- Spider mite Fine yellow speckling on leaves and fine webbing in hot, dry weather.
- Slugs Young shoots eaten off at ground level just after they come up.
Diseases to watch for
- Rust Rusty orange-brown pustules under the leaves in humid weather.
- Halo blight Small dark spots on the leaves with a yellow halo, spread by water splash. Avoid wetting the leaves and do not save seed from affected plants.
Common questions
Why are my runner bean flowers falling off?
The most common causes are hot weather, dry soil and a lack of bees. Runner beans drop their flowers without setting pods when it is above about 30°C. Water deeply, mulch, give some afternoon shade in hot areas, and sow early in spring so pods set before the heat.
Are scarlet runner beans perennial?
Yes. The roots can survive mild winters and reshoot in spring for several years. In frosty areas, cut the vines down and mulch the roots heavily, or treat the plant as an annual.
Can I grow runner beans in Queensland?
They grow, but often flower without setting many pods in the heat. In South East Queensland, autumn sowings in March and April crop best. They are not suited to North Queensland or Darwin.
When should I pick runner beans?
When the pods are young and snap cleanly, usually about 20 to 25 cm long, before the beans inside bulge. Pick every two or three days to keep the plant flowering.
Are runner bean seeds poisonous?
Raw or undercooked runner beans contain natural toxins, like kidney beans. Cooking destroys them. Always cook the pods, and soak dried beans and boil them well.
What is the difference between runner beans and climbing beans?
Runner beans are a different species from French climbing beans. They have red, white or bicoloured flowers, rougher and larger pods, need bees to set pods, prefer cooler weather and can be perennial.
Sources we checked: Gardening Australia: 2005 episode 38 (scarlet runner beans for cool climates); Gardening Australia: Peas and beans; RHS: Runner beans, grow your own.