How to grow Pear in Australia
Pears are long-lived, handsome trees with spring blossom and sweet fruit from late summer into autumn. Most need a second, compatible pear nearby to set a good crop, and European pears need a cold winter. Pick them firm and ripen them indoors, as pears left to soften on the tree turn mealy.
📖 Our full guide: How to Grow Pear in Australia
At a glance
When to plant by region
| Region | When to plant | Regional note |
|---|---|---|
| South East Queensland | June to August | |
| Northern Rivers NSW | June to August | Low chill pears only: Hood, Flordahome or a nashi. Williams and Packham need far more winter chill than the Northern Rivers gets. |
| Sydney & Coastal NSW | June to August | Plant bare root Jun to Aug. Nashi and low chill pears (Hood, Flordahome) suit the coast; Williams and Packham need the colder west or the mountains. |
| Melbourne & Victoria | June to August | |
| Adelaide & SA | June to August | |
| Perth & WA | June to August | Plant bare root trees Jun to Aug. Pears suit the Hills best; on the plain choose nashi or low chill types and water deeply through summer. |
| Tasmania | June to August | Plant bare-root Jun to Aug. Outstanding in Tasmania. Long-lived and heavy cropping. |
| Canberra & ACT | June to August | |
| North Queensland | Not suited | Not viable. Needs winter chill coastal North QLD never gets. |
| Darwin & Top End | Not suited | Not viable. Needs winter chill and dormancy. Darwin has none. |
Where to plant
Plant pears in full sun in deep, fertile, well-drained soil, in a spot sheltered from strong wind and away from frost hollows, as late frost damages the blossom and reduces the crop. Pear trees need little maintenance once established and live for many years.
European pears such as Williams and Packham need plenty of winter chill. In warm coastal areas choose low-chill pears or nashi instead.
- Hobart, Canberra, Melbourne and Adelaide: excellent pear country. Plant bare-root trees in winter.
- Sydney: nashi and low-chill pears such as Hood and Flordahome suit the coast; Williams and Packham need the colder west or the mountains.
- Perth: pears suit the Hills best; on the plain choose nashi or low-chill types and water deeply through summer.
- South East Queensland and the Northern Rivers: low-chill pears only, such as Hood, Flordahome or a nashi.
- North Queensland and Darwin: not suited; there is no winter chill.
Choosing a variety
| Variety | Notes |
|---|---|
| Williams (Bartlett) | The classic sweet, juicy dessert pear, mid season; needs a cold winter |
| Packham's Triumph | Australian bred; a large green pear, sweet and juicy, late season and a good keeper |
| Beurre Bosc | Brown skin and firm, sweet flesh; excellent for poaching and baking |
| Nashi (Asian pear) | Round, crisp and juicy, eaten firm; a lower chill need than European pears |
| Low-chill pears (such as Hood and Flordahome) | For warm coastal and subtropical gardens |
Check pollination before you buy: most pears crop best with a second compatible variety flowering at the same time, in your garden or a neighbour's. Your nursery can advise on partners. Trees on quince rootstock stay smaller and fruit sooner.
How to plant
- Plant bare-root trees in winter while dormant.
- Soak the roots in a bucket of water for half an hour before planting.
- Dig a hole wider than the roots and as deep. On poor soil, mix a bucket of compost into the backfill.
- Plant at the same depth as before, with the graft union above the soil, and stake the young tree.
- Water in well and mulch, keeping the mulch clear of the trunk.
Watering and feeding
Water young trees regularly in dry spells while they establish. Established trees are fairly tolerant, but deep watering while the fruit is swelling in summer gives better-sized fruit, especially in Perth and Adelaide.
Mulch with compost each spring. Trees in mulched soil seldom need much fertiliser; if crops are poor, apply a general-purpose organic fertiliser in early spring.
Pruning and care through the year
- Prune free-standing trees in winter to keep an open shape, remove dead, diseased and crossing wood, and encourage fruiting spurs.
- Pears shed some young fruit naturally in early summer. If a heavy crop remains, thin to one or two fruit per cluster, about 10 to 15 cm apart, which helps prevent biennial bearing.
- Codling moth: from spring, tie corrugated cardboard bands around the trunk to trap the caterpillars as they look for places to cocoon, replacing and destroying them every three weeks. Clear loose bark and debris, and pick up and destroy infested and fallen fruit weekly; do not compost it.
- Net trees against birds as the fruit sizes up.
Harvesting
Pick pears just before they are ripe, when they are full size and firm, with a slight change in skin colour, and lift free with a gentle upward twist. Do not wait for them to soften on the tree, as they often turn mealy.
Ripen picked pears at room temperature over several days to a few weeks, depending on the variety, and check them often; they are ready when the flesh near the stalk gives slightly. Unripe pears keep for one to three months in the fridge, depending on variety. Nashi are different: they are picked ripe and eaten crisp.
Growing in pots
A compact pear on dwarfing quince rootstock can be grown in a pot at least 50 cm wide, in quality potting mix. Water regularly in the growing season and feed in spring. You will still need a pollination partner nearby.
Using it
Eat ripe pears fresh, or poach, bake and stew them; Beurre Bosc holds its shape well when cooked. Pears also make good chutney and preserves.
Companion planting
Keep grass and weeds out of the root zone of young trees. Low flowers and herbs at the edge of the canopy bring in bees for pollination and other helpful insects.
Good companions
- Nasturtium A low flowering cover for the canopy edge that brings in insects; keep it trimmed back from the trunk.
- Chives A small clumping herb for the bed edge whose flowers attract bees.
- Garlic Takes little space at the sunny edge of the fruit tree bed.
- Comfrey Leaves can be cut and laid under the tree as a mulch that feeds the soil; it is hard to remove once planted.
- Marigold A small annual flower for the edge of the canopy that brings in pollinators.
Keep apart
Avoid planting these close to pear.
- Walnut A very large tree that shades fruit trees, and walnuts are widely reported to release a compound that holds back the growth of some plants nearby.
Pests and diseases
Codling moth and pear scab are the main problems in home gardens, with pear and cherry slug in summer.
Pests to watch for
- Codling moth Small brown entry holes in the fruit with dark frass tunnels to the core, and fallen young fruit.
- Pear and cherry slug Small, black, slimy slug-like larvae on the upper leaf surface in summer, which skeletonise the leaves.
- Scale Small bumps on bark and twigs with sticky honeydew.
- Birds Pecked fruit as it sizes up and colours. Net the tree.
Diseases to watch for
- Pear scab Olive-green to black spots on fruit, sometimes cracking and distorting it, with spots under the leaves and small blisters on young shoots. Rake up fallen leaves and prune out infected shoots.
Common questions
Do I need two pear trees?
For most varieties, yes. Most pears need pollen from a second compatible variety that flowers at the same time, either in your garden or nearby. Check with your nursery before buying.
When should I pick pears?
Just before they are ripe, when they are full size and firm, with a slight colour change, and they lift free with a gentle upward twist. Ripen them indoors at room temperature.
Why are my pears gritty or brown in the middle?
They were most likely left to soften on the tree. Pears left on the branch until soft often turn gritty or mealy, so pick them full size and firm and ripen them on the bench.
Can I grow pears in Brisbane?
Only low-chill types such as Hood and Flordahome, or a nashi. Williams and Packham need far more winter cold than south east Queensland provides.
What are the black slimy slugs on my pear leaves?
Pear and cherry slug, the larvae of a sawfly. They graze the upper leaf surface in summer, leaving skeletonised leaves. Small infestations can be hosed or wiped off.
How do I control codling moth on pears?
Combine hygiene and trapping: destroy infested and fallen fruit weekly, clear loose bark and debris, and tie corrugated cardboard bands around the trunk to catch caterpillars, replacing them every three weeks. Pheromone traps help you time other controls.
How long does a pear tree take to fruit?
A grafted tree usually takes a few years to start bearing; trees on dwarfing quince rootstock fruit a little sooner. They then crop for many decades.
Sources we checked: Agriculture Victoria: Pear scab; Agriculture Victoria: Codling moth; Local Food Connect (Robin Gale-Baker): Codling moth; RHS: How to grow pears.