How to grow Lime Tree in Australia
A lime tree, usually the seedless Tahitian lime, crops heavily in warm gardens and suits a sunny courtyard or a large pot. Care is the same as for a lemon: sun, sharp drainage, deep watering and regular citrus food. Limes are more frost tender than lemons, so in cooler districts plant in late spring in the warmest, most sheltered spot.
📖 Our full guide: How to Grow Lime Tree in Australia
At a glance
When to plant by region
| Region | When to plant | Regional note |
|---|---|---|
| South East Queensland | March to September | |
| Northern Rivers NSW | March to September | |
| Sydney & Coastal NSW | March to September | |
| Melbourne & Victoria | October and November | More frost tender than lemon, so wait until October. Melbourne frosts run roughly mid May to mid September; planting Oct to Nov in a warm sheltered spot gives a full warm season before winter. |
| Adelaide & SA | March and April, September and October | Limes grow well in Adelaide but are more frost tender than lemons. Plant Sep to Oct in a warm sheltered spot; Mar to Apr also works on the plains. |
| Perth & WA | May to September | Mediterranean: lime trees thrive in warmth. No calendar adjustment; establish spring-autumn. |
| Tasmania | October and November | Marginal. Tahitian lime needs a frost-free wall or a pot that moves under cover in winter. Plant Oct to Nov. |
| Canberra & ACT | Not suited | Too frost tender for Canberra. Keep a Tahitian lime in a pot moved under cover for winter. |
| North Queensland | May to October | Dry season establishment May to Oct. Lime trees ideal for tropical north; fruit year-round. |
| Darwin & Top End | May to October | Dry season establishment May to Oct. Lime trees ideal for tropical north; fruit year-round. |
Not to be confused with: Finger Lime, an Australian native rainforest citrus with long, caviar-filled fruit, and Lemon, its hardier relative. Kaffir or makrut lime is a different species grown mainly for its leaves.
Where to plant
Plant in full sun, out of strong and cold winds. Limes are more frost tender than lemons, so avoid frost hollows, and in cooler districts plant against a warm, north-facing wall or grow the tree in a pot that can be moved under cover.
Drainage matters more than anything else. Citrus roots die in waterlogged soil, so avoid low, soggy spots and plant on a raised mound if your soil is heavy clay or shallow. Citrus prefer soil around pH 6 to 7. Keep lawn and weeds out of the root zone, roughly out to the edge of the canopy, as citrus roots are shallow and compete poorly.
- South East Queensland, the Northern Rivers and Sydney: plant from March to September.
- Perth: plant from May to September; limes thrive in the warmth.
- Adelaide: plant in September or October in a warm, sheltered spot; March and April also work on the plains.
- Melbourne: wait until October, then plant in October or November in a warm, sheltered spot so the tree has a full warm season before winter.
- Hobart: marginal. Plant in October or November against a frost-free wall, or in a pot moved under cover for winter.
- Canberra: too frost tender for the open garden. Keep a Tahitian lime in a pot moved under cover for winter.
- North Queensland and Darwin: plant in the dry season, May to October, and water regularly until the wet. Limes suit the tropics and can fruit year round.
Choosing a variety
| Variety | Notes |
|---|---|
| Tahitian (Persian) | The common seedless lime with juicy fruit. Crops heavily in warm areas |
| West Indian (Mexican or Key lime) | Small, very aromatic, seedy fruit; the most frost tender, best in the tropics and subtropics |
| Kaffir or makrut lime | Grown for its double leaves used in Thai cooking; the bumpy fruit has little juice |
Buy grafted trees. Dwarfing rootstock such as Flying Dragon keeps a tree small enough for a pot or a courtyard.
How to plant
- Plant in spring after the last frost, or in autumn in warm, frost-free areas.
- Water the tree in its pot well before planting.
- Dig a hole wider than the pot but no deeper. On heavy or shallow soil, build a wide raised mound and plant into it.
- Plant at the same depth as in the pot, with the graft union well above the soil.
- Water in deeply, then mulch, keeping the mulch 10 to 15 cm clear of the trunk to prevent collar rot.
- Keep the soil moist while the tree establishes; that usually means watering at least weekly.
Watering and feeding
Give a deep soak rather than a light sprinkle, then let the top few centimetres dry before watering again. Young trees need water at least weekly while they establish. Established trees need regular deep watering through spring and summer, most of all from flowering until the fruit has set and through dry, hot spells. Never leave them in soggy soil. Potted limes that are not flowering are often simply too dry or hungry.
Feed with a citrus fertiliser in late winter or early spring, again in summer, and again in early autumn, at the packet rate, spreading it around the edge of the canopy and watering it in. Potted trees need feeding at least twice a year and often more. Do not feed heavily while the tree is in full flower. Pale leaves with green veins usually point to a shortage of iron or other trace elements.
Pruning and care through the year
- In the first year or two, pick off most of the young fruit so the tree builds a strong frame.
- Keep the tree in full sun. A lime that grows tall, thin and with small fruit is often short of sun, water or food.
- Prune lightly in winter: remove dead wood, crossed or rubbing branches, branches touching the ground and shoots from below the graft. Dead twigs carry melanose.
- Citrus gall wasp: cut out swollen galls on stems between April and June, or slice the top off each gall in mid to late winter. Bag the cuttings and leave them in the sun for a month before disposal.
- Bronze orange bugs: knock young bugs into a bucket of soapy water in winter, wearing eye protection and gloves, as they squirt a liquid that burns.
Harvesting
Shop limes are picked bright green, but a backyard lime is ripest and juiciest when it turns pale yellow-green, which shows its sugar levels have risen. Pick when the fruit is full size and feels heavy for its size. Twist gently or cut the stalk. Limes hold on the tree for a while, but over-ripe fruit drops and can dry out, so pick regularly.
In southern Australia the main crop is in late summer and autumn, roughly January to April. In the tropics limes can fruit through much of the year.
Growing in pots
Choose a dwarf tree on dwarfing rootstock and a pot at least 50 cm wide with good drainage holes. Use a premium potting mix suitable for citrus and keep the mix topped up. Potted citrus dry out faster and use up nutrients faster than trees in the ground, so water more often and feed lightly but regularly through the warm months. In frosty areas, move the pot under cover for winter.
Companion planting
Citrus do best with their root zone clear of competition. Low plants that feed the soil or bring in helpful insects are fine near the edge of the canopy.
Good companions
- Comfrey Its leaves can be cut and laid under the tree as a mulch that feeds the soil. Keep it away from the trunk, and note it is hard to remove once planted.
Pests and diseases
Most lime problems in home gardens are insects on new growth, trace element shortages and poor drainage.
Pests to watch for
- Citrus gall wasp Lumpy, woody swellings on young stems, visible from autumn. Prune or peel them before the wasps emerge in spring.
- Bronze orange bug Shield-shaped bugs, green to orange when young and bronze-black as adults, on new shoots. Flowers and young fruit drop.
- Leaf miner Silvery, winding trails in new leaves, which curl and distort. The most common citrus problem; white oil sprays on new growth stop the moths laying eggs.
- Scale Small bumps on leaves and stems, sticky honeydew, black sooty mould and ants.
Diseases to watch for
Common questions
When is a lime ripe?
When it is full size and turns pale yellow-green. Shop limes are picked bright green because underripe fruit ships and stores better, but a backyard lime is juicier and sweeter once it starts to yellow.
Why isn't my potted lime flowering?
Usually it is too dry, hungry or short of sun. Top up the potting mix, water more often, feed with a citrus fertiliser at least twice a year, and make sure it gets full sun.
Why are my lime tree leaves pale between the veins?
Bleaching between green veins is usually iron deficiency, often in alkaline soil or old potting mix. A chelated iron or trace element product, and a citrus fertiliser, help.
Can I grow a lime tree in Melbourne?
Yes, in a warm, sheltered spot. Limes are more frost tender than lemons, so plant in October or November, protect young trees on frosty nights, or grow a dwarf tree in a pot.
How long does a lime tree take to fruit?
A grafted tree usually starts cropping 2 to 3 years after planting. Pick off most of the fruit in the first year or two so the tree grows strong.
Can I grow a lime tree in a pot?
Yes. Choose a dwarf Tahitian lime, a pot at least 50 cm wide and a quality citrus potting mix. Water more often than a tree in the ground and feed regularly through the warm months.
Why are my limes small?
Small fruit usually comes from a lack of water while the fruit is growing, too little food, too little sun, or too much fruit on a young tree. Water deeply, feed regularly with citrus food and trace elements, and thin heavy crops.
Sources we checked: NSW DPI: Growing lemons in Australia, a production manual (establishment); Agriculture Victoria: Citrus gall wasp; Gardening Australia: Citrus Care; Gardening Australia: Harvesting Citrus; Gardening Australia: FAQs, lime trees; Gardening Australia: Ask It Solve It, limes (leaf miner and iron deficiency); Gardening Australia: Ask It Solve It, struggling lime.