How to grow Custard Apple in Australia
The custard apple grown in Australia is an atemoya, a hybrid of the cherimoya and the sugar apple, with creamy, sweet white flesh inside a knobbly green skin. It is a subtropical tree that needs a warm, frost-free, sheltered spot, and in the backyard the main jobs are pruning, watering through fruit set and, for some varieties, hand pollinating the flowers.
📖 Our full guide: How to Grow Custard Apple in Australia
At a glance
When to plant by region
| Region | When to plant | Regional note |
|---|---|---|
| South East Queensland | September to February | |
| Northern Rivers NSW | September to February | |
| Sydney & Coastal NSW | October to January | Marginal. Plant Oct to Jan in the warmest sheltered coastal spot. African Pride is the variety that crops furthest south; frost in the west kills young trees. |
| Melbourne & Victoria | Not suited | Marginal; requires 200+ frost-free days and protected microclimate. Melbourne's short warm season and frost risk (May to Sept) too severe. |
| Adelaide & SA | Not suited | Mediterranean: unsuitable. Custard Apple/Sugar Apple requires subtropical warmth. Outside Mediterranean range. |
| Perth & WA | Not suited | Mediterranean: unsuitable. Custard Apple/Sugar Apple requires subtropical warmth. Outside Mediterranean range. |
| Tasmania | Not suited | Unsuitable. Needs a long warm frost-free season. Not viable in Tasmania. |
| Canberra & ACT | Not suited | Custard Apple unsuitable for Canberra: tropical; frost-intolerant; marginal even in northern NSW. Not viable. |
| North Queensland | September to February | Best on the Atherton Tableland. Queensland DPI says custard apples (atemoya) are not suited to the hot coastal tropics, where they set fruit poorly. Sugar apple suits the hot coast better. |
| Darwin & Top End | Not suited | Not suited. Queensland DPI says custard apples (atemoya) are not suited to the hot coastal tropics, where they set fruit poorly. Grow sugar apple instead. |
Where to plant
Custard apples need a warm, frost-free, well-protected spot in full sun. Frost can kill or severely damage both young and bearing trees. The wood is soft and brittle and the branches break easily in wind, especially when carrying a full crop, and wind rubbing marks the fruit skin, so shelter matters as much as warmth.
Queensland DPI advice is that the trees need at least 1 m of well-drained soil without heavy clay or rock to avoid root rot; where the topsoil is shallower, plant on a mound. Sandy loams suit them best. Avoid ground where tomatoes, potatoes, eggplant, capsicum or ginger grew recently, as these can carry bacterial wilt, which also attacks custard apples.
The tree is fussy about flowering weather. Fruit sets best at about 25 to 28°C with humid air during flowering, from October to February. Hotter weather gives more leaf and fewer flowers, and Queensland DPI says custard apples are not suited to the hot coastal tropics or hot inland areas.
- South East Queensland and the Northern Rivers: the heart of Australian custard apple growing. Plant from September to February in a sheltered, frost-free spot.
- Sydney: marginal. Plant from October to January in the warmest, most sheltered north-facing spot near the coast. African Pride is the variety that crops furthest south, and frost in the west kills young trees.
- North Queensland: plant from September to February, but the atemoya custard apple sets fruit poorly in hot coastal lowlands, so it does best on the Atherton Tableland. Darwin: not suited, as Queensland DPI says custard apples are not suited to the hot coastal tropics. In the hot tropics, its parent the sugar apple is the more reliable choice.
- Melbourne, Adelaide, Perth, Canberra and Hobart: not suited, as the season is too short and too cold.
Choosing a variety
| Variety | Notes |
|---|---|
| African Pride | A smaller tree that flowers within 2 to 3 years and is the easiest to crop without hand pollination. The fruit is seedier. The variety that copes best with cooler areas |
| Pinks Mammoth | Large fruit with excellent flavour, but sets very little fruit without hand pollination |
| Hillary White | A sport of Pinks Mammoth that crops earlier and more heavily, with consistent quality; also needs hand pollination for good crops |
| KJ Pinks | A sport of Pinks Mammoth bred in Queensland that sets fruit well on its own, giving larger fruit and reliable yields |
Buy a grafted tree. Seedlings are slow to fruit and variable.
How to plant
- Plant in spring or summer when the soil is warm, so the tree settles before winter.
- Choose a sheltered, sunny spot with deep, well-drained soil, or build a wide mound if the soil is shallow or heavy.
- Water the tree in its pot well, then plant it at the same depth it sat in the pot, with the graft union above the soil.
- Water in deeply and mulch widely, keeping the mulch clear of the trunk.
- Allow about 6 m between trees, or less if you will prune hard to keep them small.
Watering and feeding
Keep the soil evenly moist from flowering through fruit set and while the fruit grows. Even moisture gives bigger crops and stops the fruit splitting. Ease off watering in winter when the tree is semi-dormant, and never let the roots sit in wet soil. Custard apples are sensitive to salty water.
Custard apples do not need heavy feeding. Gardening Australia suggests compost and small, occasional applications of chicken manure, which keeps the soil healthy without pushing soft, brittle growth.
Pruning and pollination
Prune regularly to keep the tree low, open and strong. Gardening Australia describes three prunes a year: a main prune in autumn after harvest to control height, a spring prune to lift the lowest branches off the ground, and a summer tidy to remove water shoots and keep the centre open. A low, open tree is easier to pollinate, net and pick, and less likely to snap under a heavy crop.
Custard apple flowers are first female and then male, so they rarely pollinate themselves, and natural fruit set is poor in most varieties except African Pride and KJ Pinks. Hand pollination makes a big difference.
- In mid to late afternoon, pick a few flowers whose petals are nearly fully open and whose pollen sacs have turned creamy grey.
- Leave them on a sheet of paper or a tray overnight at room temperature. The pollen sacs shed onto the paper.
- Before 11 am the next morning, use a small, soft paintbrush to dab the pollen onto the centre of flowers that are just starting to open, when the female parts are receptive.
- Use the pollen within 2 to 3 days, as it does not keep.
Harvesting
Fruit ripens over a long season, from about February to early November, with the peak in May and June. Pick when the skin colour lightens, the knobbly segments smooth out and the fruit shows faint stretch marks between them. Clip it with a short stalk, as the soft fruit bruises easily.
Picked fruit ripens on the bench at room temperature over several days and is ready when it gives to gentle pressure. Do not put unripe fruit in the fridge: below about 8°C it suffers chill injury. Once soft, eat it within a day or two.
Using it
Cut a ripe custard apple in half and scoop out the flesh with a spoon, spitting out the black seeds. The flesh is good chilled, in smoothies, fruit salads and ice cream.
Pests and diseases
In south east Queensland the main problems are mealybug, fruit fly and fruit spotting bug, along with root rot in poorly drained soil.
Pests to watch for
- Mealybug White, waxy clusters on the fruit, often where fruit touches or near the stalk, with sticky honeydew and black sooty mould. The most important custard apple pest in south east Queensland.
- Fruit fly Small puncture marks on ripening fruit, which then rots from the inside. Pick fruit as it matures and use baits, traps or fruit bags.
- Fruit spotting bug Black, sunken spots on the shoulders of young fruit, which may drop.
Diseases to watch for
- Anthracnose Dark spots on the fruit skin, sometimes called pepper spot, worse in warm, wet weather.
- Root rot Leaves yellow and wilt and the tree declines, in shallow or poorly drained soil. Plant on a mound and avoid waterlogging.
Common questions
Why does my custard apple tree flower but not set fruit?
Custard apple flowers are female first and male later, so most varieties rarely pollinate themselves. Hot, dry weather at flowering makes it worse. Hand pollinate with a small brush in the morning, or grow a variety that sets well on its own, such as African Pride or KJ Pinks.
How do I know when a custard apple is ripe?
On the tree, the skin colour lightens and the bumpy segments smooth out, often with faint stretch marks. Pick it then and let it soften on the bench for several days. It is ready to eat when it gives to gentle pressure.
Can I grow a custard apple in Sydney?
Yes, in the right spot. Plant in the warmest, sunniest, most sheltered north-facing position near the coast, choose African Pride, and protect young trees from frost. Western Sydney frosts kill young trees.
How long does a custard apple tree take to fruit?
A grafted tree usually starts flowering and fruiting within 2 to 3 years. Seedlings take longer and the fruit varies.
Should I put custard apples in the fridge?
Not until they are fully ripe. Unripe fruit stored below about 8°C suffers chill injury and does not ripen properly. Ripen on the bench, then eat within a day or two or chill briefly once soft.
Why are my custard apple fruit splitting?
Splitting usually follows uneven watering while the fruit is growing, or long spells below about 13°C late in fruit development. Keep the soil evenly moist and choose a warm, sheltered spot.
Sources we checked: Queensland DPI: Custard apple information kit (1998, reprint); Gardening Australia: Fruit Nerd Fruits, custard apples; Rare Fruit Council of Australia archives: Hand pollination of custard apples (George, Thomas, Campbell and Nissen, Queensland Fruit and Vegetable News, 1995); Hort Innovation: Custard apple IPDM manual; Rare Fruit Council of Australia archives: Fruit spotting bug.
