How to grow Carrot in Australia
Carrots are easy to grow once the tiny seed is up, and the trick is getting it up: sow shallowly into fine soil and keep the surface moist for two or three weeks. Give them deep, loose, stone-free soil with no fresh manure, thin them early, and water evenly for long, sweet roots.
📖 Our full guide: How to Grow Carrots in Australia
At a glance
When to sow by region
| Region | When to sow | Regional note |
|---|---|---|
| South East Queensland | February to October | |
| Northern Rivers NSW | February to October | |
| Sydney & Coastal NSW | February to October | Extended cool season; reliable year-round except Nov to Jan heat stress. |
| Melbourne & Victoria | March to September | Sow from March to September. Melbourne's cooler temperatures reduce bolting. |
| Adelaide & SA | February to September | Mediterranean: avoid Jan sowing. Carrots grow well Feb to Sept; sow earliest Feb for early harvest. |
| Perth & WA | February to September | Mediterranean: avoid Jan sowing. Carrots grow well Feb to Sept; sow earliest Feb for early harvest. |
| Tasmania | September to February | Sow Sep to Feb. Late sowings hold in the ground all winter and sweeten with frost. Tasmania grows superb carrots. |
| Canberra & ACT | September to March | Sow Sep to Mar into warm soil; seed fails in cold winter soil. Mature roots stand through frost. |
| North Queensland | May to October | Dry season main window May to Oct. Carrot needs cool/moderate temps; plant after May start. |
| Darwin & Top End | May to October | Dry season main window May to Oct. Carrot needs cool/moderate temps; plant after May start. |
Where to plant
Sow carrots in full sun in deep, loose, well-drained soil. Rocks, stones and heavy soil make roots fork, twist and grow slowly, so dig deeply, remove stones, and use a raised bed or short varieties in heavy clay. Grow them where a previous crop was well fed: fresh manure and rich fertilisers such as blood and bone or pelletised manure give leafy tops and distorted roots.
Carrots grow best in mild weather. Hot summer sowings germinate poorly, and cold winter soil is very slow.
- Sydney, Adelaide, Perth and South East Queensland: sow from February to September or October, avoiding the summer heat.
- Melbourne: sow from March to September.
- Hobart: sow from September to February; late sowings hold in the ground all winter and sweeten with frost.
- Canberra: sow from September to March into warm soil; seed fails in cold winter soil, but mature roots stand through frost.
- North Queensland and Darwin: sow in the dry season, May to October.
Choosing a variety
- Short, stumpy types such as Baby Amsterdam, Chantenay and round Paris Market suit heavy soil and pots.
- Long types such as All Seasons need deep, loose soil.
- Coloured carrots such as Purple Dragon add colour; the colour runs through the root.
How to plant
- Rake the soil fine and level, and water it the day before sowing.
- Sow seed thinly in shallow drills about 5 mm deep and 20 cm apart. Mixing the fine seed with dry sand helps spread it evenly.
- Cover lightly with fine soil or seed-raising mix and water gently.
- Keep the surface moist, but not wet, until the seedlings are up, which can take two to three weeks. A strip of hessian or shade cloth laid over the row holds moisture; lift it as soon as seedlings appear.
- At about four weeks, thin the seedlings so they stand about 3 to 7 cm apart, the wider spacing for large varieties. Thin again later if needed and eat the baby carrots.
Watering and feeding
Water evenly and regularly. A dry spell followed by heavy watering or rain makes roots split, and dry soil gives tough, woody carrots. Mulch lightly between rows once seedlings are established.
Carrots need little feeding. Grow them in soil enriched for a previous crop, or add a little potash or a low-nitrogen vegetable fertiliser. Avoid fresh manure and high-nitrogen fertilisers.
Pruning and care through the year
- Weed carefully while seedlings are small; they compete poorly.
- Hill soil over any carrot shoulders that push above the surface. Exposed shoulders turn green and bitter.
- Firm the soil back around the remaining carrots after thinning.
Harvesting
Start pulling carrots when they reach a usable size, usually 10 to 16 weeks after sowing depending on the variety. Brush the soil from the top of a root to check its width. Water the bed first so they lift easily, and loosen the soil beside long types with a fork.
Twist off the tops and store carrots in the fridge, where they keep for weeks. In cool areas, mature carrots can stay in the ground and be pulled as needed.
Growing in pots
Carrots grow well in pots and troughs at least 30 cm deep, filled with a free-draining potting mix without added manure. Choose short or round varieties, sow thinly and keep the mix evenly moist.
Saving seed
Carrots flower in their second season. Leave a few of your best roots in the ground over winter; they send up tall umbrella-shaped flower heads in spring. Cut the heads when the seed is dry and brown. Carrots cross readily with wild carrot (Queen Anne's lace) growing nearby.
Companion planting
Carrots grow well alongside onions, leeks and leafy crops that use different space in the bed. Keep their close relatives away, as they share pests and diseases.
Good companions
- Onion Narrow plants that grow alongside carrots without competing for the same space.
- Leek Another onion relative that fits between carrot rows.
- Chives A small herb that grows at the edge of the bed.
- Lettuce A quick, shallow-rooted crop that grows between rows while carrots are small.
- Tomato Carrots can grow in the space beneath tomato plants.
- Rosemary An aromatic herb traditionally planted near carrots; best at the edge of the bed.
- Sage Another aromatic herb traditionally planted near carrots.
Keep apart
Avoid planting these close to carrot.
Pests and diseases
Carrots have few serious pests in home gardens. Most problems come from soil, watering and crowding.
Pests to watch for
- Root knot nematode Stunted plants with forked, hairy roots covered in small swellings, worst in warm, sandy soil. Rotate beds.
- Aphids Colonies on the leaf stems, which turn yellow and twisted.
Diseases to watch for
- Cavity spot Small, sunken, grey or brown pits on the root surface. Rotate beds and avoid waterlogged soil.
- Alternaria leaf blight Dark brown spots on older leaves that spread until the tops die back, worst in warm, humid weather.
Common questions
Why won't my carrot seeds germinate?
Usually the surface dried out, or the seed was sown too deep. Carrot seed is slow, often two to three weeks, and needs a constantly moist surface. Sow about 5 mm deep, water gently every day or two, and lay hessian over the row to hold moisture until seedlings appear.
Why are my carrots forked or twisted?
Stones, heavy soil, fresh manure or rich fertiliser. Grow carrots in deep, loose, stone-free soil that was fed for a previous crop, or choose short varieties for heavy soil.
Why are my carrots splitting?
Uneven watering. When dry soil is suddenly soaked, the roots swell faster than their skin can stretch. Water evenly and mulch.
How far apart should carrots be?
Thin seedlings to about 3 to 7 cm apart at about four weeks old, wider for large varieties. Crowded carrots stay thin and tangled.
Why do my carrots have green tops?
The shoulders were exposed to light. Hill soil or mulch over any carrot tops that push above the surface.
When should I plant carrots?
In mild weather. In most areas avoid sowing in the hottest summer months; in Canberra and Hobart avoid cold winter soil. In the tropics sow in the dry season. Pick your region at the top of the page for the months.
Can I grow carrots in a pot?
Yes, in a pot at least 30 cm deep with a free-draining mix. Short and round varieties do best.
Sources we checked: Sustainable Gardening Australia: Growing carrots; Gardening Australia: Tino's Carrot Tips; Gardening Australia: Bumper Carrot Crop; RHS: How to grow carrots.