How to grow Brussels Sprouts in Australia
Brussels sprouts are the slowest of the cabbage family: they take about five months, and the sprouts only form tight and sweet when they ripen into cold autumn and winter weather. Sow them in early summer, plant them in firm soil, and you will be picking from the bottom of the stem up from late autumn through winter. They are a crop for cool climates.
📖 Our full guide: How to Grow Brussels Sprouts in Australia
At a glance
When to sow by region
| Region | When to sow | Regional note |
|---|---|---|
| South East Queensland | Not suited | Not reliable in SEQ. Sprouts need a long, genuinely cool run to form tight buttons, and coastal winters are too mild. Worth trying only in cooler highland areas such as Toowoomba and the Granite Belt. |
| Northern Rivers NSW | Not suited | Not reliable in the Northern Rivers. Sprouts need a long, genuinely cool run to form tight buttons, and the winters here are too mild. |
| Sydney & Coastal NSW | December to February | Sow from December to February and transplant from January to March. Grow it only in the cold west, the Hawkesbury and the mountains, as the frost-free coast rarely forms firm sprouts. |
| Melbourne & Victoria | December to February | Sow Dec to Jan (Feb at the latest), transplant Jan to Mar. Sprouts must mature into autumn cold; later sowings blow open in spring. Frost improves flavour. |
| Adelaide & SA | November to January | Sow Nov to Jan and transplant by Mar so plants are full sized before winter. Sprouts firm up in cold; best in the Hills. Autumn sowing is too late. |
| Perth & WA | December and January | A Hills crop; the plain stays too warm for firm sprouts. Sow trays Dec to Jan in bright shade, transplant late summer, harvest winter. On the plain it is a Melbourne hobby. |
| Tasmania | October to December | Sow Oct to Dec, plant out by Jan. Sprouts firm up in frost. Tasmania is ideal sprout country. |
| Canberra & ACT | October to January | Sow Oct to Jan, transplant by Feb. Long season crop; sprouts mature through winter and sweeten after frost. |
| North Queensland | Not suited | Not viable. Sprouts need months of real cold to form; the coastal NQ dry season never gets there. |
| Darwin & Top End | Not suited | Not viable. Sprouts need cold nights to form and Darwin dry season days stay near 30C. |
Where to plant
Plant Brussels sprouts in full sun in firm, rich, well-drained soil with plenty of compost dug in a few weeks ahead, and lime acid soil. Loose, freshly dug soil gives loose, open (blown) sprouts, so tread the bed down before planting. Do not plant where other cabbage family crops grew recently.
They need a long, cool growing season. The sprouts must be forming as cold weather arrives; sprouts that mature in warm weather stay loose. Frost improves their flavour.
- Hobart, Canberra and Melbourne: ideal. Sow from about October to January (Melbourne December to January) and transplant by February or March.
- Adelaide: sow from November to January and transplant by March; best in the Hills.
- Sydney: sow from December to February, but only in the cold west, the Hawkesbury and the mountains. The frost-free coast rarely forms firm sprouts.
- Perth: a crop for the Hills. Sow trays in December and January in bright shade; the coastal plain stays too warm.
- South East Queensland, the Northern Rivers, North Queensland and Darwin: not suited, as the winters are too mild for firm sprouts.
How to plant
- Sow seed about 1 to 2 cm deep in punnets or trays in early summer and keep moist, in bright shade during hot weather.
- Transplant when seedlings are about 10 to 15 cm tall, planting deeply so the lowest leaves sit at the soil surface.
- Space plants about 60 cm apart, with 60 cm between rows, for light and air flow.
- Firm the soil well around each plant and water in.
- Cover with fine insect netting to keep cabbage white butterflies off through the warm months.
Watering and feeding
Water young plants regularly so the soil never dries out, especially through summer while they establish. Once established, water deeply in dry spells and mulch to hold moisture.
Feed with a nitrogen-rich fertiliser or liquid feed through summer and early autumn to build a big plant before the sprouts form.
Pruning and care through the year
- As plants grow tall, mound soil around the base of the stem and stake them if they rock in the wind.
- Remove yellowing lower leaves to improve air flow and reduce disease.
- Keep netting on until the weather cools and the butterflies are gone.
Harvesting
Start picking from the bottom of the stem when the lowest sprouts are about walnut size, firm and tightly closed. Snap them off with a sharp downward tug, or cut them. Pick every week or so as more sprouts firm up further up the stem, before they open or yellow.
When the sprouts are finished, the leafy top of the plant (the sprout top) can be cooked like cabbage. Sprouts keep a week or more in the fridge.
Companion planting
Low, quick crops can grow between young Brussels sprouts while they fill out. Keep crops with different timing out of the same bed.
Good companions
- Beetroot A root crop that uses the space between plants while the sprouts are young.
- Onion Narrow plants that fit between the rows without competing for space.
Keep apart
Avoid planting these close to brussels sprouts.
- Tomato A summer crop with different timing and feeding needs; give each its own bed.
- Strawberry Traditionally kept away from the cabbage family.
Pests and diseases
Caterpillars through summer and aphids in the sprouts are the main pests. Netting from planting is the most reliable control.
Pests to watch for
- Cabbage moth Holes chewed in leaves and green caterpillars, from cabbage white butterfly, cabbage moth and diamondback moth. Net plants.
- Aphids Grey, waxy colonies under leaves and inside the sprouts.
- Whitefly Tiny white insects that fly up from the undersides of leaves.
Diseases to watch for
- Clubroot Plants wilt on warm days and the roots are swollen and distorted. Lime acid soil and rotate brassica beds.
- Downy mildew Yellow patches on upper leaf surfaces with grey-white fuzz underneath in cool, damp weather.
Common questions
Why are my Brussels sprouts loose and open?
Usually warm weather while the sprouts were forming, loose soil, or both. Sow in early summer so the sprouts mature in cold weather, and plant into firm soil. In mild coastal climates sprouts rarely form tight buttons.
When should I plant Brussels sprouts?
In late spring to early summer, so plants are full sized by autumn and the sprouts form in the cold. That means about October to January in Hobart and Canberra, December to January in Melbourne. Pick your region at the top of the page for the months.
How long do Brussels sprouts take to grow?
About five months from sowing. A December sowing usually gives sprouts by May or June.
How do you harvest Brussels sprouts?
From the bottom of the stem up. Pick sprouts when they are about walnut size, firm and tightly closed, with a sharp downward tug. Keep picking as the ones higher up firm.
Can I grow Brussels sprouts in Brisbane or Sydney?
Not in Brisbane or on the Sydney coast, where winters are too mild for firm sprouts. In Sydney's cold western suburbs, the Hawkesbury and the mountains, they can be grown.
Should I remove the leaves from Brussels sprouts?
Remove yellowing lower leaves as you go, which improves air flow and makes picking easier. Leave the healthy upper leaves, which feed the plant.
Sources we checked: Gardening Australia: Brussels Sprouts; ABC Organic Gardener: A frosty reception; RHS: How to grow Brussels sprouts.