How to grow Blueberry in Australia
Blueberries are long-lived shrubs that crop for many years once their one big need is met: acid soil, around pH 4.5 to 5.5. Get the soil and the variety right for your climate and they are among the easiest fruit to grow, in the ground or in a large pot.
📖 Our full guide: How to Grow Blueberries in Australia
At a glance
When to plant by region
| Region | When to plant | Regional note |
|---|---|---|
| South East Queensland | June to August | |
| Northern Rivers NSW | June to August | |
| Sydney & Coastal NSW | June to August | |
| Melbourne & Victoria | June to August | |
| Adelaide & SA | June to August | |
| Perth & WA | June to August | |
| Tasmania | June to August | Plant Jun to Aug. Tasmania is blueberry heaven, and high chill varieties crop heavily. Acid soil essential. |
| Canberra & ACT | June to August | Excellent. High chill northern highbush varieties thrive; acid soil is essential. Plant in winter. |
| North Queensland | Not suited | Not viable. Even low chill types need cooler winters than coastal NQ, and wet season root rot finishes the rest. |
| Darwin & Top End | Not suited | Not viable. Even low chill varieties need cool winters and cool acid soil. Darwin has neither. |
Where to plant
Choose a sunny spot with shelter from strong wind. In hot inland areas and in South East Queensland, some protection from the hottest afternoon sun in summer helps. Blueberries have shallow, fine roots, with almost all of them in the top 20 to 30 cm of soil, so they need soil that stays moist but never waterlogged.
The soil must be acid. Most Australian garden soils are closer to neutral, and limy or alkaline soils are common in South Australia, parts of Victoria and the Perth coastal plain. Test the pH with a cheap kit before you plant. If your soil is heavy clay, alkaline or badly drained, grow blueberries in a raised mound or a large pot of acid mix instead of fighting the soil.
- Aim for pH 4.5 to 5.5. Leaves that turn yellow between green veins usually mean the pH is too high.
- To lower pH, dig garden sulphur into the top 20 cm of soil several months before planting, following the packet rate, then test again. It works slowly, so start early.
- Never add lime, dolomite or mushroom compost to a blueberry bed, as all three raise the pH.
- Raised mounds of acid mix with plenty of compost give the roots the drainage they need in wet climates.
- Rainwater is best. In some areas tap water is alkaline and slowly pushes the pH up, so check it once a year.
Choosing a variety
Blueberries need a certain number of cool winter hours (chill hours, below about 7°C) to flower well. Pick the type that matches your winter.
| Type | Chill needed | Suits | Examples |
|---|---|---|---|
| Southern highbush (low chill) | About 250 to 600 hours | South East Queensland, the Northern Rivers, Sydney, Perth and other mild areas | Sunshine Blue, Misty, O'Neal, Sharpblue |
| Rabbiteye | About 450 to 600 hours | Mild areas with cool winters but little frost, such as Perth southwards | Plant two different rabbiteye varieties together for pollination |
| Northern highbush (high chill) | Long cold winters | Tasmania, Canberra, the Victorian ranges and other cold areas | Brigitta, Denise, Blue Rose |
Blueberries are not suited to North Queensland or the Top End, where winters are too warm and the wet season brings root rot.
How to plant
- Plant in winter, when potted plants are easy to find and the weather is mild.
- Prepare the bed or mound with plenty of compost and acid mix, and check the pH is 4.5 to 5.5.
- Dig a hole about twice the size of the pot and plant at the same depth the plant sat in its pot.
- Water in well with rainwater if you have it.
- Mulch 5 to 10 cm deep with pine bark or pine needles, keeping it just clear of the stems.
- In the first year, pick off the flowers so the plant puts its energy into roots and growth.
Watering and feeding
Blueberries have little water in reserve because their roots are so shallow, so water little and often rather than in big, rare soaks. Commercial growers in northern New South Wales apply about 25 to 40 mm of water a week in the growing season. For a home bush, that means a good soak two or three times a week in warm weather, more in heatwaves and every day for pots in summer. Too much water is as harmful as too little, as soggy soil brings on root rot.
Feed with a fertiliser made for azaleas and camellias in spring and again in summer, at the packet rate. These supply nitrogen in the ammonium form blueberries prefer. Go easy: too much fertiliser gives leafy growth and fewer flowers, and it can burn the fine roots. Top up the mulch each year.
Pruning and care through the year
- Years 1 to 3: only remove dead, damaged and weak twiggy growth.
- Mature bushes: prune in winter. Cut a few of the oldest, thickest canes off at the base each year, so the bush keeps a mix of young, middle-aged and old stems. Young canes carry the best fruit.
- Net the bushes as the first berries start to colour, before birds find them.
- In Queensland and New South Wales, watch for fruit fly in ripening berries and pick promptly.
- Check the pH each autumn and add a little sulphur if it has crept above 5.5.
Harvesting
Berries are ripe when they are fully blue with a silvery bloom and come away into your hand with no green or red at the stem. They do not ripen any further once picked, so leave them a few days after they turn blue for the best flavour. Berries on a bush ripen over several weeks, so pick every few days.
Low-chill types in South East Queensland ripen from late winter through spring. In cooler areas the main crop comes in summer. A mature bush can give several kilograms of fruit a season.
Growing in pots
Pots are often the easiest way to grow blueberries, because you control the soil completely. Start with a pot at least 30 to 40 cm wide and deep for a young plant, and move up to 45 to 50 cm as it grows. Compact varieties such as Sunshine Blue suit pots best.
Use a premium potting mix made for azaleas and camellias, which is already acid. Water with rainwater where you can, as potted plants dry out fast and tap water can raise the pH in the small volume of mix. Repot or refresh the mix every two to three years, and feed lightly through the warm months with an azalea and camellia fertiliser.
Propagation
Blueberries are usually bought as named varieties, since seed does not come true. Home gardeners can root new plants by mound layering: bury the base of a few low stems in acid mix and leave them for 6 to 9 months until they form roots, then cut them away and pot them up.
Companion planting
The best neighbours for blueberries are plants that enjoy the same acid soil, so the whole bed can be managed the same way.
Good companions
- Azalea Needs the same acid soil, mulch and watering.
- Rhododendron Another acid-loving shrub that can share the bed.
- Strawberry A low groundcover for the edge of the bed. It copes with mildly acid soil, though it prefers a little less acid than blueberries.
Keep apart
Avoid planting these close to blueberry.
- Lime-loving plants Plants that like lime or alkaline soil, such as lavender, need the opposite conditions, so give them their own bed.
Pests and diseases
Birds are the biggest thief. Most other problems come from soil that is too wet or not acid enough.
Pests to watch for
- Birds Berries pecked or gone as they colour. Net the bushes early.
- Fruit fly In Queensland and New South Wales, small stings and soft spots on ripening berries. Pick promptly and use netting or traps.
- Scale Small brown or white bumps on stems, often with sticky honeydew and black sooty mould.
Diseases to watch for
- Blueberry rust Small yellow spots on the upper leaf with powdery yellow-orange pustules underneath, worst in warm, wet weather. Remove badly affected leaves.
- Root rot Wilting, yellowing and dieback in wet, poorly drained soil, caused by Phytophthora. Plant on mounds and do not overwater.
- Botrytis Grey, fuzzy mould on flowers and berries in wet weather.
Common questions
Why are my blueberry leaves turning red?
Red or maroon leaves in autumn and winter are normal, and many varieties colour up or drop their leaves in the cold. A red or purple tinge in a cold spell in spring usually fades as it warms up. Red patches between the veins on otherwise green leaves in the growing season can point to magnesium or phosphorus shortage, which is often because the pH is too high for the roots to take up nutrients. Test the pH first.
Why are my blueberry leaves yellow?
Yellow leaves with green veins, mostly on new growth, usually mean the soil pH is too high, so the plant cannot take up iron. Lower the pH with garden sulphur and switch to rainwater. Pale, evenly yellow leaves can mean a shortage of nitrogen or roots damaged by waterlogging.
Do I need two blueberry bushes?
Many highbush varieties, including Sunshine Blue, set fruit on their own, but a second variety nearby that flowers at the same time gives more and bigger berries. Rabbiteye blueberries need a second rabbiteye variety to crop well.
How do I make my soil acid enough for blueberries?
Test it first. Dig garden sulphur into the top 20 cm several months before planting, following the packet rate, and test again before you plant. Add plenty of compost, mulch with pine bark or pine needles, and never use lime, dolomite or mushroom compost. If your soil is very alkaline, a raised mound or a pot of azalea and camellia mix is far easier.
Can I grow blueberries in Brisbane or South East Queensland?
Yes, if you choose low-chill southern highbush varieties such as Sunshine Blue, Misty or O'Neal and give them acid soil with good drainage. Plant in winter. In the hottest part of summer, some afternoon shade and steady watering help.
How big a pot does a blueberry need?
At least 30 to 40 cm wide and deep to start, moving up to 45 to 50 cm for a mature bush. Use azalea and camellia potting mix and refresh it every two to three years.
Why is my blueberry bush not fruiting?
The common causes are a variety that does not get enough winter chill for your area, soil that is not acid enough, too much fertiliser, or a young plant. Pruning off all the older wood in winter also removes the buds that would have flowered.
How long until a blueberry bush fruits?
Expect a small crop in the second year and full crops from about the fifth year. Picking off the flowers in the first year gives a stronger bush later.
Sources we checked: Gardening Australia: Growing Blueberries; Gardening Australia: Building Blueberries; NSW DPI: Irrigation management of blueberries in northern NSW; NSW DPI: Managing blueberry rust; RHS: Blueberries, grow your own; Cornell University: Blueberry leaf colour problems.
