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How to grow Nashi in Australia

Nashi, the Asian pear, gives round, crisp, very juicy fruit that ripens on the tree and is eaten firm, straight away. Two things decide the crop: enough winter chill, and a second variety flowering at the same time. Get those right and the tree is long lived and heavy cropping.

📖 Our full guide: How to Grow Nashi (Asian Pear) in Australia

At a glance

Plant
Bare rooted trees in winter, June to August
First crop
Usually in the third or fourth year
Sun
Full sun, sheltered from strong wind
Soil
Deep, fertile, free draining, pH about 6 to 7
Spacing
About 4 to 5 m apart; less for dwarf trees
Height
About 3 to 5 m, kept lower by pruning
Pollination
Plant two compatible varieties
Pot
Dwarf trees only, in a pot at least 50 cm wide

When to plant by region

RegionWhen to plantRegional note
South East QueenslandJune and JulyMarginal. Most nashi need more winter chill than coastal SEQ gets, so only the lowest chill varieties are worth trying, with a pollinator and fruit fly netting. The Granite Belt suits nashi far better.
Northern Rivers NSWJune to AugustMarginal on the coast for lack of chill; better on the tablelands. Plant two varieties and bag or net fruit against fruit fly.
Sydney & Coastal NSWJune to AugustPlant bare rooted trees Jun to Aug. Coastal winters are mild, so expect lighter crops than in the colder west and the mountains. Bag or net fruit against fruit fly.
Melbourne & VictoriaJune to August
Adelaide & SAJune to August
Perth & WAJune to AugustPlant bare rooted trees Jun to Aug. Nashi suit the Perth Hills best; on the plain, water deeply through summer and protect fruit from Mediterranean fruit fly.
TasmaniaJune to AugustPlant bare rooted trees Jun to Aug. Plenty of chill; plant away from frost hollows, as late frost can damage the blossom.
Canberra & ACTJune to AugustPlant bare rooted trees Jun to Aug. Cold winters give plenty of chill; plant away from frost hollows, as late spring frost can damage the blossom.
North QueenslandNot suitedNot viable. Nashi need winter chill that coastal North QLD does not get.
Darwin & Top EndNot suitedNot viable. Nashi need winter chill and dormancy, and Darwin has none.

Not to be confused with: European pears such as Williams and Packham, which are picked hard and ripened indoors. See our Pear guide.

Where to plant

Plant in full sun with shelter from strong wind, which marks the skin and knocks fruit off. Nashi need deep, fertile, free draining soil; improve heavy clay with compost and avoid spots that stay wet.

Most nashi need a moderate amount of winter chill. NSW DPI gives about 550 hours for Hosui and about 600 for Kosui, and some Korean varieties such as Dan Bae need more. The dormant tree is frost hardy, but the blossom is not, so avoid frost hollows.

  • Melbourne, Adelaide, Canberra, Hobart and the tablelands: reliable, with plenty of chill.
  • Sydney and Perth: crops are lighter on the coast and the plain than in the colder west, the mountains and the Perth Hills. Protect fruit from fruit fly.
  • South East Queensland and the Northern Rivers: marginal on the coast for lack of chill; the Granite Belt and the tablelands suit nashi far better.
  • North Queensland and Darwin: not viable, as there is no winter chill.

Choosing a variety

Choose two or more varieties that flower together. NSW DPI lists compatible partners for each one; a European pear such as Williams that flowers at the same time can also pollinate nashi.

VarietyFruitChill and pollination
HosuiLarge, russeted golden brown, sweet and juicy with excellent flavourAbout 550 hours; pollinated by Nijisseiki, Kosui or Shinsui, not Niitaka
KosuiMedium, golden yellow to tan, very sweet and juicyAbout 600 hours; pollinated by Hosui, Chojuro or Nijisseiki
Nijisseiki (Twentieth Century)Green to yellow skin, crisp and juicyThe classic nashi; crops far better with a partner
ShinseikiYellow, crisp and juicyA dependable pollination partner

How to plant

  1. Plant bare rooted trees in winter while they are dormant. Soak the roots for an hour first.
  2. Dig a hole wider than the roots, set the tree at the depth it grew in the nursery with the graft union above the soil, and spread the roots out.
  3. Backfill, firm gently and water in well. Space standard trees about 4 to 5 m apart.
  4. Mulch the root zone, keeping mulch clear of the trunk.
  5. Cut the young tree back at planting to start a central leader or open vase shape, as the nursery advises for that tree.

Watering and feeding

Water young trees regularly through their first two summers. Once established, water deeply every week or so in dry weather from spring until harvest, because dry soil while the fruit swells gives small fruit.

Feed in late winter or early spring with compost and a balanced fruit tree fertiliser. Go easy on nitrogen, which pushes soft growth.

Pruning and care through the year

  • Prune in winter to keep a strong framework and let light into the tree. Nashi fruit on long lived spurs, so keep healthy spurs and thin out crowded ones.
  • Thin the fruit hard soon after it sets, leaving one fruit per cluster and about 15 to 20 cm between fruits. Unthinned trees give small fruit and can break branches.
  • Net the tree or bag the fruit against birds, and bag fruit in fruit fly areas.
  • Pick up and destroy fallen and grub damaged fruit to break the codling moth and fruit fly cycles.

Harvesting

Nashi ripen on the tree from about January to April, depending on the variety and district. Pick when the skin has its full colour for the variety, green yellow or golden brown, and the fruit lifts away with a gentle twist. Taste one first; unlike European pears, they are ready to eat crisp straight away.

Handle them gently, as the skin marks easily. They keep for weeks in the fridge, and NSW DPI rates Hosui as keeping 3 to 4 months in cool storage.

Growing in pots

Choose a tree on a dwarfing rootstock in a pot at least 50 cm wide, with a second variety or a double grafted tree for pollination. Water often in summer and repot or root prune every few years.

Using it

Eat nashi fresh and crisp, sliced into salads and slaws, or grated into Korean marinades for beef, where the juice tenderises the meat. They also poach and bake well, as the flesh holds its shape.

Common questions

Do nashi need a pollinator?

Almost always. Most varieties need a second compatible variety flowering at the same time, such as Hosui with Nijisseiki or Kosui. A European pear such as Williams that flowers at the same time can also do the job.

How much chill do nashi need?

A moderate amount. NSW DPI gives about 550 hours for Hosui and about 600 for Kosui, so nashi suit temperate and cool districts and are marginal on the subtropical coast.

When are nashi ripe?

When the skin reaches its full colour for the variety and the fruit lifts off with a gentle twist, from about January to April. They ripen on the tree and are eaten crisp, so taste one to be sure.

Why are my nashi so small?

Usually because the tree carried too many fruit. Thin to one fruit per cluster, about 15 to 20 cm apart, soon after fruit set, and water well while the fruit swells.

Can I grow nashi in Brisbane?

It is marginal. Coastal South East Queensland gives too little chill for most varieties, so only the lowest chill types are worth trying, with fruit fly protection. The Granite Belt suits nashi far better.

Is nashi the same as a pear?

It is a pear, but a different species. Nashi is Pyrus pyrifolia, the Asian pear, eaten crisp from the tree, while European pears such as Williams are picked hard and ripened indoors.

Sources we checked: NSW DPI: Nashi variety Hosui (Agfact H4.1.14); NSW DPI: Nashi variety Kosui (Agfact H4.1.14); DPIRD WA: Bulletin 4237, Growing nashi in Western Australia.

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