Dried seed pods and saved seeds in paper envelopes on a wooden table

Seed Saving Guide for Australian Gardeners

Save money, preserve varieties, and grow plants adapted to your garden

Saving seeds from your own garden is free, satisfying, and gradually produces plants that are better adapted to your specific soil and climate. A tomato variety that you have saved seeds from for 3 or 4 years will perform better in your garden than the same variety bought fresh from a seed company. The plants slowly adapt to your conditions with each generation.

This guide covers why seed saving matters, the difference between open-pollinated and hybrid seeds, how to save seeds from the easiest crops, processing and storage methods, and Australian seed law.

Why Save Seeds?

It saves money. A single tomato plant produces hundreds of seeds. A packet of seed costs $4 to $6. Over a few years, seed saving pays for itself many times over.
Local adaptation. Each generation of saved seed is better suited to your garden's soil, climate, and microclimate. Plants become hardier, more productive, and more disease-resistant over time.
Variety preservation. Many heirloom varieties are not available commercially. Seed saving is the only way to keep them alive. If nobody saves seed from a variety, it disappears.
Self-sufficiency. A gardener who can save seeds does not depend on supply chains, nurseries, or seed companies. You control your own food production from start to finish.
Sharing. Saved seeds make great gifts and can be swapped with other gardeners through seed libraries and community seed banks.

Open-Pollinated vs Hybrid Seeds

This is the most important concept in seed saving. If you save seeds from the wrong type of plant, the results will disappoint you.

Open-pollinated (OP)

Open-pollinated varieties breed true from seed. If you save seeds from an open-pollinated Grosse Lisse tomato, the next generation will be Grosse Lisse tomatoes with the same characteristics. These varieties have been stable for many generations. Heirloom varieties are open-pollinated by definition.

Hybrid (F1)

Hybrid varieties are created by crossing two specific parent lines. The first generation (F1) is uniform and often vigorous, but seeds saved from F1 hybrids will not grow true to type. The next generation will be a random mix of traits from the parent lines, often with poor performance. Look for "F1" on the seed packet or label. If it says F1, do not save seeds from it.

Tip: Check the seed packet before planting. If you plan to save seeds, only plant open-pollinated or heirloom varieties. Many Australian seed companies label their OP varieties clearly. Look for the words "open-pollinated," "heirloom," or "heritage."

Easiest Crops to Save Seeds From

Start your seed saving journey with these crops. They are mostly self-pollinating, so cross-pollination is not a concern, and the seed processing is straightforward.

Beans and Peas

The simplest crops for seed saving. Let pods dry on the plant until they rattle when shaken. Pick the dry pods, shell the seeds, and store. Beans and peas self-pollinate before the flowers even open, so there is virtually no risk of crossing between varieties. You can grow different varieties side by side and save seeds from all of them.

Tomatoes

Tomatoes are self-pollinating and rarely cross with other varieties. Scoop seeds from a ripe tomato into a jar with a little water. Leave the jar at room temperature for 2 to 3 days until a mould forms on the surface. This fermentation breaks down the gel coating that inhibits germination. Rinse the seeds in a sieve, spread on a plate, and dry completely before storing.

Lettuce

Let one or two plants bolt (go to seed). The flower stalks produce small dandelion-like seed heads. When the seed heads are fluffy and dry, cut the whole stalk, shake it into a paper bag, and separate the seeds from the chaff. Lettuce self-pollinates, so you can grow multiple varieties without crossing.

Pumpkin and Squash

Scoop seeds from a fully ripe pumpkin, wash off the flesh, and dry on a plate for 1 to 2 weeks. The challenge with cucurbits is that they cross-pollinate freely. If you grew multiple pumpkin varieties, the seeds may produce unexpected results. To prevent crossing, grow only one variety or hand-pollinate and cover the flowers.

Coriander

Coriander bolts readily in warm weather, which is normally a problem. For seed saving, it is perfect. Let the plants flower and produce seed heads. When the seeds turn brown and dry, cut the whole stem and hang upside down in a paper bag. The seeds will fall into the bag as they dry. Coriander seeds are also a useful spice in the kitchen.

Capsicum and Chilli

Let fruit ripen fully on the plant (past eating stage for capsicum). Cut open and scrape out the seeds. Spread on a plate and dry for 1 to 2 weeks. Capsicum and chilli can cross-pollinate with each other, so separate varieties by at least 5 metres or grow only one type if saving seeds.

Wet vs Dry Seed Processing

Dry processing

Used for seeds that mature and dry inside pods, husks, or seed heads on the plant. This includes beans, peas, lettuce, coriander, sunflowers, and most herbs.

Leave seed heads or pods on the plant until fully dry and brown.
Cut or pick the dry material.
Shell, thresh, or shake seeds free from their casings.
Spread seeds on a plate in a cool, dry spot for a few days to ensure they are completely dry.
Winnow (blow gently over the seeds) to separate chaff from clean seed.

Wet processing

Used for seeds embedded in fruit flesh. This includes tomatoes, cucumbers, melons, and eggplant.

Scoop seeds and surrounding gel or flesh into a jar or cup.
Add a small amount of water.
Leave at room temperature for 2 to 4 days. A thin layer of mould will form on the surface. This is normal and beneficial. The fermentation process breaks down germination inhibitors and kills some seed-borne diseases.
After fermentation, add more water and stir. Viable seeds sink to the bottom. Pour off the floating pulp, mould, and hollow seeds.
Rinse the good seeds in a fine sieve under running water.
Spread on a non-stick surface (a ceramic plate, not paper towel, which seeds stick to) and dry completely in a well-ventilated spot out of direct sunlight. This takes 1 to 2 weeks.

Tip: Seeds are dry enough for storage when they snap cleanly in half rather than bending. If a seed bends, it still contains too much moisture and will rot in storage.

Seed Storage

Proper storage keeps seeds viable for years. The enemies of stored seed are moisture, heat, and light.

Container: Paper envelopes inside an airtight glass jar or plastic container. The envelope absorbs residual moisture. The sealed outer container keeps humidity out.
Temperature: Cool and consistent. A fridge (not freezer) is ideal. A cool cupboard away from the kitchen works too. Avoid sheds and garages where temperatures swing.
Moisture control: Add a sachet of silica gel or a tablespoon of dry rice wrapped in cloth to the storage container. This absorbs excess moisture.
Labelling: Always label envelopes with the variety name, crop type, and date saved. You will not remember which seeds are which in 6 months.

Seed viability by crop

1 to 2 years: Onion, parsnip, corn, scorzonera
2 to 3 years: Carrot, leek, capsicum, spinach
3 to 4 years: Peas, beans, lettuce, pumpkin, beetroot
4 to 5 years: Tomato, brassicas (broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower), cucumber, melon

Germination Testing

Before planting old saved seeds, test their germination rate. This takes 10 minutes of setup and a week or two of waiting.

Lay 10 seeds on a damp paper towel.
Fold the towel over the seeds and place inside a sealed plastic bag.
Keep at room temperature (20 to 25 degrees) in a warm spot.
Check after 7 days for fast germinators (beans, lettuce, radish) or 14 days for slow ones (capsicum, celery, parsley).
Count how many seeds have sprouted.

If 7 or more out of 10 germinate, the seed is still good. If 4 to 6 germinate, sow more thickly to compensate. If fewer than 4 germinate, the seed is past its useful life. Compost it and buy or save fresh.

Cross-Pollination and Isolation

Self-pollinating crops (tomatoes, beans, peas, lettuce) rarely cross with other varieties. You can grow multiple varieties side by side and save seeds from all of them with confidence.

Cross-pollinating crops (pumpkin, corn, brassicas, beetroot, carrots) freely share pollen between varieties of the same species. If you grew two different pumpkin varieties near each other, seeds from either one may produce hybrid offspring.

To prevent unwanted crossing:

Grow only one variety of a cross-pollinating crop at a time.
Separate varieties by recommended distances (usually 200 metres or more for wind-pollinated crops, 20 to 50 metres for insect-pollinated crops).
Use physical barriers: cover plants with fine mesh or bags to exclude pollinators, then hand-pollinate.
Stagger flowering times: plant varieties at different times so they do not flower simultaneously.

Australian Seed Laws

Australian gardeners can save seeds from open-pollinated and heirloom varieties for personal use without any legal restrictions. There are a few things to be aware of:

Plant Breeders Rights (PBR). Some newer plant varieties are protected under PBR legislation. You cannot propagate PBR-protected varieties for commercial sale without a licence. Home gardeners saving for their own use are generally not affected, but you cannot sell PBR-protected seeds or plants at markets or online.
Biosecurity. Do not send seeds across state borders without checking quarantine requirements. Some states restrict the movement of plant material to prevent the spread of pests and diseases. The same applies to importing seeds from overseas.
Seed libraries and swaps. Community seed libraries and seed swap events are legal and popular across Australia. Many local councils, community gardens, and gardening groups run them. They are a great way to access new varieties and share your own.

Track Your Varieties

The Planting Season app helps you plan what to grow and when. Keep track of your open-pollinated varieties and sowing dates all in one place.

Open the App →

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the easiest seed to save?

Beans and peas are the easiest seeds to save. Let the pods dry on the plant until they rattle, pick them, shell the seeds, and store. They self-pollinate so the seeds grow true to type without any special effort.

Can you save seeds from hybrid plants?

You can collect seeds from hybrid (F1) plants, but they will not grow true to type. The offspring will be a mix of the parent traits and often perform poorly. Only save seeds from open-pollinated or heirloom varieties if you want consistent results.

How long do saved seeds last?

Most vegetable seeds stored in a cool, dry, dark place last 2 to 5 years. Bean, tomato, and brassica seeds last 4 to 5 years. Onion, parsnip, and corn seeds last only 1 to 2 years. Always do a germination test before relying on old seeds.

Is it legal to save seeds in Australia?

Yes. Australian gardeners can legally save seeds from open-pollinated and heirloom varieties for personal use. You cannot save or propagate seeds from plant varieties protected by Plant Breeders Rights (PBR) for commercial sale without a licence. Home gardeners saving for their own use are not affected by PBR restrictions.

What is the difference between wet and dry seed processing?

Dry processing is for seeds that dry in pods or husks on the plant, like beans, peas, lettuce, and coriander. You simply collect and shell them. Wet processing is for seeds embedded in fruit flesh, like tomatoes and cucumbers. These seeds are scooped out, fermented briefly in water to remove the gel coating, then rinsed and dried.