How to grow Asparagus in Australia

Asparagus is a long-lived perennial vegetable: plant a bed of crowns once and it can crop every spring for 20 years or more. The catch is patience. Give it deep, rich, weed-free soil, leave it unharvested for the first couple of years, and let the ferny summer growth feed the roots.

📖 Our full guide: How to Grow Asparagus in Australia

At a glance

Plant

Dormant crowns in late winter, July to September

First crop

A light pick in the third spring after planting crowns

Sun

Full sun

Soil

Deep, rich, free draining, pH 6.5 to 7

Spacing

About 40 cm between crowns

Height

Ferny summer growth 1 to 1.8 m

Pot

Possible in a deep pot, but crops are light

Frost

Hardy; needs winter cold to rest

When to plant by region

Region	When to plant	Regional note
South East Queensland	July to September
Northern Rivers NSW	July to September	Hinterland areas get enough chill. Coastal zones marginal.
Sydney & Coastal NSW	July to September	Good winter chill in western suburbs. Reliable long-term crop.
Melbourne & Victoria	July to September	Excellent winter chill. Melbourne is ideal asparagus country. One of the best crops to grow here.
Adelaide & SA	July to September	Good winter chill. Reliable long-term crop for Adelaide gardens.
Perth & WA	July to September	Moderate chill. Reliable in Perth gardens.
Tasmania	August to October	Plant crowns Aug to Oct. Deep winter chill makes Tasmania prime asparagus country. Beds produce for 20 years.
Canberra & ACT	July to September	Excellent chill. Reliable long-term crop for Canberra gardens.
North Queensland	Not suited	Not enough winter chill. Not viable in tropical North QLD.
Darwin & Top End	Not suited	Not viable. Zero winter chill.

Where to plant

Choose a sunny spot you will not need for anything else, as the bed stays for decades. Asparagus likes deep, friable, rich soil with a pH of about 6.5 to 7. In heavy clay, dig in plenty of organic matter or build a raised mound so the crowns never sit wet, as crown rot follows poor drainage. Clear out every perennial weed before planting, because weeding around established crowns is hard.

Asparagus needs a winter rest, so it does best where winters are cool.

Melbourne, Hobart, Canberra and Adelaide: ideal country, with excellent winter chill. In Hobart plant crowns from August to October.
Sydney and Perth: reliable, especially in western Sydney.
South East Queensland and the Northern Rivers: worth trying; hinterland areas get more chill than the coast.
North Queensland and Darwin: not viable, as there is no winter chill.

Choosing a variety

Male plants give more and better spears, while female plants put energy into red berries. Many modern varieties are all-male or mostly male.
Mary Washington, UC 157 and Purple Pacific are commonly sold in Australia. Purple Pacific has purple spears that turn green when cooked.
Buy one-year-old crowns rather than starting from seed; seed takes a year longer to reach harvest.

How to plant

In late winter, dig a deep trench and fork plenty of well-rotted cow, sheep or poultry manure into the bottom.
Make a low ridge of soil along the trench and sit each crown on top, spreading its fleshy roots down either side.
Space the crowns about 40 cm apart, and cover them so the buds are just below the surface.
Water thoroughly to settle the soil around the roots, then mulch.
Let every spear grow into fern in the first year, and pick only a few, or none, in the second.

Watering and feeding

Water deeply in dry spells, especially in spring and summer while the ferns are growing and feeding the crowns. Mulch keeps the soil moist and the weeds down.

Asparagus is a hungry crop. Top dress the bed in spring with blood and bone or well-rotted manure, and add compost each year.

Pruning and care through the year

Weed often and by hand; asparagus roots are shallow and spread, so do not dig in the bed.
Leave the ferns standing all summer. They feed the crowns for next year's spears.
In autumn, once the ferns turn yellow, cut them back to ground level.
Female plants drop berries that seed into the bed. Pull the seedlings, which crowd the bed.
Tall ferns can flop in wind; a few stakes and string along the row keep them upright.

Harvesting

From the third spring, harvest spears when they are about 15 to 18 cm tall and roughly finger thick, before the tips loosen. Cut each spear with a sharp knife just below the soil, or snap it off at the base. Pick for about six weeks in the first harvest year and up to eight weeks once the bed is established, then stop and let the remaining spears grow into fern.

Use spears fresh, or stand them upright in a little water in the fridge for a few days.

Growing in pots

Asparagus can grow in a pot at least 30 cm wide and deep, though 50 cm deep is better for its long roots. Expect lighter crops and a shorter life than in the ground.

Growing from seed

Seed is cheaper than crowns but adds a year before the first harvest. Sow about 2.5 cm deep in spring, grow the seedlings on for a year, then plant the young crowns into their permanent bed.

Companion planting

An asparagus bed is mostly left alone, but low plants that do not need digging can share the edges in summer. Keep crops that need regular digging well away.

Good companions

Tomato A traditional summer partner that can be planted along the edge of the bed while the ferns grow.
Parsley A low herb for the bed edges that, left to flower, feeds helpful insects.
Basil A summer herb that fits along the edges without competing with the deep crowns.
Marigold Flowers for the bed edges that bring in hoverflies.

Keep apart

Avoid planting these close to asparagus.

Potato Digging potatoes damages the spreading asparagus roots, so grow them in another bed.
Onion Traditionally kept out of asparagus beds; onions also compete with the shallow asparagus roots.
Garlic Like onions, traditionally kept out of the asparagus bed.

Pests and diseases

Asparagus has few problems. Slugs and snails on young spears and rot in wet soil are the main ones.

Pests to watch for

Slugs Ragged, chewed spear tips in spring, with silvery slime trails. Snails do the same.

Diseases to watch for

Crown rot Weak, thin spears and yellowing ferns, with rotting crowns in wet or poorly drained soil.
Rust Orange to brown powdery spots on the ferns in summer. Cut and remove affected ferns in autumn.

All pests and diseases

Common questions

How long does asparagus take to grow?

From one-year-old crowns, you can pick lightly in the third spring after planting, then fully from the fourth. From seed, add another year. The wait pays off, as a good bed crops for 20 years or more.

Why can't I harvest asparagus in the first year?

The spears that grow into fern feed the roots. Cutting them early weakens the crowns and reduces crops for years. Leave them all in the first year and take only a few, or none, in the second.

When should I cut back asparagus ferns?

In autumn, once the ferns have turned yellow or brown. Cut them to ground level, clear away the old growth, and top dress the bed with compost or manure.

What is the difference between male and female asparagus?

Male plants give more and better spears. Female plants grow red berries in autumn, which spend the plant's energy and self-sow seedlings into the bed. Many modern varieties are all-male.

Can asparagus grow in Queensland?

In South East Queensland it can be grown, best in the cooler hinterland, but it needs a winter rest. It is not viable in tropical North Queensland or Darwin.

How do you know when to stop picking asparagus?

Pick for about six weeks in the first harvest year and up to eight weeks once the bed is established. Stop when the spears become thin, and let the rest grow into fern to feed the crowns.

Can I grow asparagus in a pot?

Yes, in a deep pot at least 30 cm wide and preferably 50 cm deep, but crops will be lighter and the plant will not last as long as in the ground.

Sources we checked: Gardening Australia: Planting Asparagus; Gardening Australia: Asparagus; ABC Organic Gardener: Growing asparagus; RHS: How to grow asparagus.