How to grow Mulberry in Australia

Where to plant

Plant in full sun in fertile, well-drained soil that holds some moisture. Mulberries dislike wet feet but need water in dry summers. Allow plenty of room: a standard tree can grow up to 15 m tall and 8 m wide over time, although regular pruning keeps it much smaller. Weeping and dwarf mulberries suit small gardens and pots.

Ripe red and black mulberries stain paving, cars, clothes and decks, so plant over lawn or garden bed, well away from paths and washing lines.

• Melbourne, Canberra, Hobart, Adelaide and Perth: mulberries are hardy and reliable. Plant bare-root trees in winter.
• Sydney, South East Queensland and the Northern Rivers: grow and crop well; humid weather can bring fungal leaf spots.
• North Queensland and Darwin: plant in the dry season and water through to the wet.

Choosing a variety

Mulberries are self-fertile, so one tree is enough.

How to plant

1. Plant bare-root trees in winter while dormant, or potted trees from autumn to spring.
2. On poor soil, mix a bucket of compost or well-rotted manure into the soil you backfill with.
3. Plant at the same depth as before and firm in.
4. Add a sturdy stake to steady the young tree, water in well and mulch, keeping mulch off the trunk.
5. If several trunks develop, choose one main trunk or stake well, as leaning trees can become unstable.

Watering and feeding

Water young trees regularly through dry spells for the first few years. Established trees in the ground handle dry periods well, but a deep soak while the fruit is forming in spring gives juicier berries. Trees in pots need steady watering through the warm months.

Feed with a balanced fertiliser in spring and mulch well. Yellowing leaves or fruit dropping early can be a sign the tree needs feeding.

Pruning and care through the year

• Prune while the tree is dormant, from leaf fall to midwinter, as mulberries bleed a lot of sap if cut at other times. Shape young trees to a framework of strong branches, then remove only dead, damaged, crossing or crowded wood. Opening the centre lets sun ripen the lower berries, which stay bland in shade.
• To keep a big tree smaller, some growers take out one or two large branches in summer after fruiting, when regrowth is slower. Cut at the junction with the trunk, in dry weather, as cuts bleed sap.
• Net a small tree as the fruit colours. Use wildlife-friendly netting with a fine mesh.
• Pick up fallen fruit, as it attracts fruit fly in warm areas.

Harvesting

Fruit ripens over several weeks in spring and early summer, mostly in October and November. Pick when the berries are fully coloured for their type and come away at a gentle touch. The easiest way to pick a big tree is to spread a tarp underneath and shake the branches.

Mulberries last only a couple of days once picked. Use them quickly or freeze them. A wet mulberry leaf rubbed on stained fingers helps lift the stain.

Growing in pots

Dwarf and compact mulberries grow well for many years in a large pot at least 50 cm wide and deep, in quality potting mix. Water steadily through the warm months, feed in spring and refresh the top layer of mix or repot every few years.

Using it

Eat mulberries fresh, or use them in pies, muffins, jam, syrup, juice and ice cream. They freeze well for later baking.

Propagation

Mulberries grow readily from hardwood cuttings taken in late winter or early spring. Low branches can also be layered: bury a section with a couple of buds above ground, then cut and replant it once it has rooted.