How to grow Lavender in Australia
Lavender is a tough, fragrant shrub that asks for little more than full sun and soil that drains fast. Wet roots kill it far more often than cold or drought. English lavender suits the dry south best, while French lavender copes better with coastal humidity.
📖 Our full guide: How to Grow Lavender in Australia
At a glance
When to sow by region
| Region | When to sow | Regional note |
|---|---|---|
| South East Queensland | March to September | |
| Northern Rivers NSW | March to September | |
| Sydney & Coastal NSW | March to September | |
| Melbourne & Victoria | March to September | Frost-hardy perennial. Melbourne cool climate ideal. Extend window vs SEQ. |
| Adelaide & SA | March to September | |
| Perth & WA | March to September | |
| Tasmania | March and April, September to November | Plant Sep to Nov or autumn. Tasmania has world-famous lavender farms, and drainage matters more than cold. |
| Canberra & ACT | March to September | Lavender is cold-hardy Mediterranean; plant spring-autumn; needs excellent drainage; prune after flowering; thrives in cool season. |
| North Queensland | May to September | Dry season May to Sep. Lavender prefers drier conditions. |
| Darwin & Top End | May to September | Dry season May to Sep. Lavender prefers drier conditions. |
Where to plant
Give lavender the sunniest, most open spot you have. In shade it grows thin and leans towards the light. Drainage matters most: lavender does not like wet feet, and root rot in heavy or waterlogged soil is its main killer. On clay, plant on a raised mound or in a raised bed, and work in coarse grit.
Lavender prefers poor to moderately fertile soil and tolerates alkaline soil well. On acid soils, a little dolomite lime in spring and autumn helps. Give plants room for air to move around them, as damp, still air around the base encourages rot.
- Melbourne, Canberra, Hobart, Adelaide and Perth: the best lavender country. English lavender and its hybrids thrive in the dry summers and cool winters. In Hobart and Canberra, plant in spring or early autumn so roots establish before cold, wet weather.
- Sydney, South East Queensland and the Northern Rivers: humidity is the problem. English lavender is the least suited here; French lavender (Lavandula dentata) does better. Plant in the most open, sunny, well-drained spot, and expect to replace plants after a few years.
- North Queensland and the Top End: lavender struggles with tropical humidity. Plant in the dry season, ideally French lavender in a pot of gritty mix, and treat it as a short-lived plant.
Choosing a variety
| Type | Notes |
|---|---|
| English lavender (Lavandula angustifolia) | Compact, strongly scented, flowers in late spring and summer. The best for cooking and drying and the hardiest to cold, but the least suited to humid climates. 'Hidcote' is a well-known variety |
| Lavandin (Lavandula x intermedia) | A hybrid of English lavender, grown for oil and cut flowers. 'Grosso' is a common example |
| French lavender (Lavandula dentata) | Toothed leaves, flowers mostly through the cooler months into spring, and copes best with heat and humidity. A large shrub, up to about 1.5 m across, and less fragrant |
| Topped or Spanish lavender (Lavandula stoechas) | Short flower heads topped with coloured, ear-like bracts. It seeds readily and is a weed in parts of southern Australia, so see the note below |
Topped lavender (Lavandula stoechas) is a declared noxious weed in Victoria, listed as restricted in the North Central catchment, and an environmental weed in South Australia and Western Australia, where it spreads into grassland and bushland. If you live near bushland, choose English or French lavender instead, and if any lavender is seeding itself around your garden, consider removing it.
How to plant
- Buy young plants, or strike your own from cuttings. Seed is slow and named varieties do not come true from it.
- Plant in autumn or spring, following the calendar for your region. Avoid planting in the middle of a cold, wet winter, when young plants can rot.
- On heavy soil, build a mound or raised bed about 20 to 30 cm high and mix in coarse grit before planting.
- Plant at the same depth as in the pot, about 30 to 45 cm apart for a hedge, or further apart for single shrubs.
- Water in well, then water regularly through the first summer while the roots establish.
- Mulch with gravel or keep the base clear. Thick, moist organic mulch against the stems holds water where lavender does not want it.
Watering and feeding
Water young plants regularly in their first season. Once established, lavender in the ground rarely needs watering except in long dry spells, as it roots deeply and thrives on the dry side. Overwatering does far more harm than underwatering. Plants in pots need regular water in summer and should be kept fairly dry in winter.
Lavender does best in soil that is low in nutrients, so it generally needs no feeding. Rich feeding gives soft, sprawling growth and fewer flowers. A light dressing of dolomite lime suits it on acid soil.
Pruning and care through the year
- Prune once flowering finishes: English types usually in late summer, French types after their cool season flowering.
- Cut off the spent flower stalks and a few centimetres of leafy growth, keeping green foliage on every stem.
- Do not cut back into bare, woody stems. Lavender rarely regrows from old wood, which is why unpruned plants go leggy and open in the middle.
- French lavender can be clipped back, but it naturally grows into a large shrub; give it room rather than cutting it hard.
- Even with good care, lavender plants age and get woody. Replace old plants with fresh cuttings every few years, sooner in humid areas.
Harvesting
For drying, cut stems when the lower flowers on the spike have opened and the rest are still in bud, as that is when the colour and scent are best. Cut in the morning once the dew has dried, just above the leaves, which also tidies the plant.
Tie the stems in small bunches and hang them upside down somewhere airy and out of direct sun until dry, then strip the flowers and store them in a sealed jar.
Growing in pots
Lavender grows well in pots, which are a good way to give it perfect drainage in humid areas or on heavy soil. Use a pot 30 to 40 cm wide with large drainage holes and a potting mix with about a quarter coarse grit added. Water regularly in summer but let the mix dry between waterings, keep it fairly dry in winter, and stand the pot where winter rain does not keep it soaked.
Using it
The flowers are edible. English lavender has the sweetest scent and is the one to use in cooking, sparingly, in biscuits, cakes, syrups and honey. Dried flowers keep their scent for months in a sealed jar and are used in sachets and posies. The flowers are also a magnet for bees and other beneficial insects.
Propagation
Lavender is easy to strike from cuttings. Take soft tip cuttings with a heel in spring, or half-hardened cuttings in autumn, about 8 to 10 cm long. Strip the lower leaves and set them in a gritty, open mix, kept just moist, until they root. Seed is possible but slow, varieties do not come true, and self-sown seedlings are how lavender becomes weedy.
Companion planting
Lavender wants dry, lean soil, while most vegetables want rich, moist soil. Grow it at the sunny edge of the vegetable garden, where its flowers draw bees and beneficial insects, rather than in a bed you water often.
Good companions
- Rosemary Another Mediterranean shrub that wants the same sunny, dry, well-drained spot and little feeding, so the two share a bed happily.
- Tomato Lavender planted along the edge of a tomato bed brings in bees and other beneficial insects. Keep it out of the watered bed itself.
- Brassicas Often planted near the cabbage family in the hope its scent confuses pests. There is little evidence for that, but its flowers do draw beneficial insects to the garden.
Pests and diseases
Lavender has few pests in home gardens. Almost every lost plant comes down to wet roots or old age.
Lavender is rarely troubled by pests.
Diseases to watch for
- Root rot Plants wilt, grey off and die back, often after wet weather, while the soil stays damp. Prevent it with sharp drainage, mounds and light watering, as affected plants rarely recover.
Common questions
Why is my lavender dying?
The most common cause is wet roots. Lavender in heavy soil, in a poorly drained pot or watered too often gets root rot, wilts and dies, often after a wet spell. Humidity in coastal Queensland and New South Wales also shortens its life. Old plants also go woody and die out in the middle. Replant in a raised, gritty spot in full sun, water sparingly, and replace old plants with cuttings every few years.
When should I prune lavender?
Prune when flowering finishes. That is usually late summer for English lavender and after the cool season flush for French lavender. Cut off the spent flower stalks and a little of the leafy growth, but never cut back into bare, woody stems, as lavender rarely regrows from old wood.
Can you grow lavender in Queensland?
Yes, with the right type. English lavender is the least suited to humid climates, so choose French lavender (Lavandula dentata), give it full sun, sharp drainage and good air flow, or grow it in a pot. Expect plants to need replacing after a few years.
What is the difference between English and French lavender?
English lavender (Lavandula angustifolia) is compact, strongly scented, flowers in late spring and summer, and is the best for cooking and drying. French lavender (Lavandula dentata) has toothed leaves, flowers mostly through the cooler months, grows into a large shrub and copes better with heat and humidity.
Is lavender a weed in Australia?
Topped or Spanish lavender (Lavandula stoechas) is. It is a declared noxious weed in Victoria, restricted in the North Central catchment, and an environmental weed in South Australia and Western Australia, where it spreads from seed into bushland. If you live near bushland, grow English or French lavender, and remove any lavender that is seeding itself around.
Can I grow lavender in a pot?
Yes. Use a pot 30 to 40 cm wide with large drainage holes, and potting mix with about a quarter coarse grit added. Water regularly in summer but let the mix dry out between waterings, and keep it fairly dry in winter.
How do I grow lavender from cuttings?
Take soft tip cuttings with a heel in spring, or half-hardened cuttings in autumn. Strip the lower leaves and set them in a gritty, open mix kept just moist until they root, then pot them on or plant them out.
Sources we checked: Gardening Australia: Lavender; Gardening Australia: Plant profile, French lavender; Gardening Australia: FAQs, Pruning lavender; Calyx (Brisbane): Lavender; Victorian Noxious Weeds List (Agriculture Victoria); Connecting Country: Weed of the month, topped lavender; RHS: Lavender growing guide.