How to grow Choko in Australia
Choko (Sechium edule), also called chayote, is a vigorous perennial climber in the pumpkin family, famous for smothering backyard fences in Queensland and New South Wales. You plant a whole sprouting fruit, and a single vine can produce dozens of pale green, pear-shaped fruit from late summer into autumn. Picked young, they are mild, crisp and versatile.
📖 Our full guide: Growing Chokos in Australia: How to Grow Chokos on a Trellis
At a glance
When to sow by region
| Region | When to sow | Regional note |
|---|---|---|
| South East Queensland | September to November | |
| Northern Rivers NSW | September to November | |
| Sydney & Coastal NSW | September to November | |
| Melbourne & Victoria | October and November | Frost-sensitive vine; sow Oct to Nov only. Dies in Melbourne winter. Treat as annual. |
| Adelaide & SA | September to November | |
| Perth & WA | September to November | |
| Tasmania | Not suited | Unsuitable. The vine needs a long frost-free season and winter kills the tuber. |
| Canberra & ACT | Not suited | Not reliable in Canberra. Fruit forms in late autumn just as frosts arrive; the vine is usually killed before harvest. |
| North Queensland | September to November | Late dry/wet season Sep to Nov. Choko is tropical perennial vine; sow in early wet-season window. |
| Darwin & Top End | September to November | Late dry/wet season Sep to Nov. Choko is tropical perennial vine; sow in early wet-season window. |
Where to plant
Plant choko in full sun in rich, well-drained soil against a strong fence, trellis or pergola. The vine is extremely vigorous, so put it where it can ramble without swamping other plants. It is frost tender and needs a long, warm season to crop well, but fruit sets best when nights are mild, about 15 to 20°C; some vines fruit poorly where nights stay very hot.
In frost-free areas the vine is perennial and regrows from its tuberous root each year.
- South East Queensland, the Northern Rivers and Sydney: plant from September to November; vines crop heavily from late summer through autumn.
- Perth and Adelaide: plant in a warm, sheltered spot in spring after frost.
- Melbourne: plant in October or November; frost kills the vine in winter, so treat it as an annual.
- Canberra and Hobart: not reliable; frost usually kills the vine before the fruit forms.
- North Queensland and Darwin: plant from September to November; vines may fruit best in the cooler months, as very warm nights reduce fruit set.
How to plant
- Take a whole, mature choko and leave it somewhere light and dry until a shoot grows from the broad end.
- Plant the whole fruit on its side, with the stem and shoot end sloping upward and partly exposed, at the base of the support.
- Water in and keep the soil just moist until the shoot is growing strongly.
- Guide the young shoots onto the trellis or fence.
Watering and feeding
Water deeply during dry spells, especially while the vine is flowering and fruiting, and mulch well. Feed through the warm months with compost, manure or a balanced fertiliser to keep the vine productive.
Pruning and care through the year
- Cut the vine back hard in winter, once it dies back or stops cropping; it regrows from the root in spring in frost-free areas.
- Trim wayward shoots during the season to keep the vine on its support.
- Bees pollinate the separate male and female flowers, so avoid spraying when the vine is in flower.
Harvesting
Pick chokos young and tender, while they are light green and small, about the size of an egg or a little larger. Young fruit have a soft skin that does not need peeling and no fibre. Older, larger chokos are tougher and are best peeled; wear gloves, as the sap can leave a sticky film on the hands.
Fruit reach full size about a month after the flowers are pollinated, and a vine crops for weeks; pick every few days so fruit does not get old and sprout on the vine. Store chokos somewhere cool, ideally about 7 to 10°C, where they keep for up to four weeks; very cold storage can damage them.
Using it
- Use young chokos raw in salads and slaws, or cook them like zucchini in stir-fries, curries, soups and gratins.
- Chokos absorb flavours, and are traditionally used in pickles, chutneys and as a bulk ingredient in jams.
- The young shoots and tender leaves are also edible cooked, and the tuberous roots of older vines can be cooked like potato.
Starting new vines
Choko is grown from the whole fruit, which contains a single large seed. Keep one or two mature fruit from the end of the season and let them sprout on a sunny windowsill or bench to plant in spring.
Pests and diseases
Choko is tough and rarely troubled. Powdery mildew late in the season and fruit fly in Queensland and New South Wales are the main problems.
Pests to watch for
- Fruit fly Stung, soft fruit with maggots inside, in fruit fly areas. Pick young fruit often.
Diseases to watch for
- Powdery mildew White, powdery patches on leaves, especially late in the season. Usually harmless to the crop.
Common questions
How do you grow a choko?
Plant a whole, mature choko that has started to sprout, laying it on its side or at an angle with the shoot end partly exposed, at the base of a strong fence or trellis. Plant in spring after frost.
When should you pick chokos?
Young, while they are light green, small and tender, about egg size. Older, larger chokos are tougher and need peeling.
Why does my hand go sticky when I peel choko?
Choko sap leaves a sticky film on the skin that can be hard to wash off. Wear gloves, or peel them under running water.
Is choko a perennial?
Yes, in frost-free areas. The vine dies back or is cut back in winter and regrows from its tuberous root. In frosty areas it is killed in winter and grown as an annual.
Can you eat choko raw?
Yes. Young, tender chokos can be sliced or grated raw into salads. Most people cook them, like zucchini.
Why is my choko vine not fruiting?
Usually the season or the temperature. Chokos flower in the shorter days of late summer and autumn, and fruit best when nights are mild, about 15 to 20°C. Rich, very leafy growth and young vines that are still establishing also crop less.
Sources we checked: Specialty and Minor Crops Handbook (University of California, hosted by University of Hawaii CTAHR): Chayote; Some Magnetic Island Plants: Sechium edule (choko); Plants (journal) review: Origin, evolution and breeding of chayote.