How to Grow Figs in Australia
Updated June 2026
Container growing, two crops per year, and variety picks for every region
Figs are one of the easiest fruit trees you can grow in Australia. They shrug off poor soil, drought and neglect better than almost any other fruit, and a well-placed tree crops for decades with very little care. They are also the standout choice for pots, since restricting the roots actually pushes the plant to fruit, which makes them possible even on a balcony or in a courtyard.
Figs are remarkably adaptable across Australia. They are frost-hardy once fully dormant, yet they ripen best with a long, warm to hot summer. The trick is matching the variety and the growing method (in the ground or in a pot) to your climate. Use the selector below to see what suits you, then read on for planting, feeding, pruning and harvest.
Fig climate suitability selector
When to Plant in Your Region
Climate and Position
Figs crop best in a warm, sheltered, sunny position with at least six to eight hours of direct sun. Heat ripens the fruit and builds sugar, so a spot against a north-facing wall or fence is ideal, especially in cooler districts where the reflected warmth makes a real difference. Avoid deep shade and frost pockets. Established figs are frost-hardy when fully dormant and can take light frost, but young trees, potted figs and the autumn crop are frost-sensitive, so growing in a pot you can move is the safest option in cold areas.
Planting
In the ground: plant bare-rooted figs in winter while dormant, or container-grown figs in autumn or spring. Dig a hole twice the width of the rootball, set the tree at the same depth it grew at, backfill with the native soil, and water in well. Figs are not fussy about soil as long as it drains freely. Soggy ground is the one thing they will not tolerate. Mulch the root zone, keeping mulch off the trunk.
In pots: use a pot at least 50 cm wide and deep with good drainage holes, and a quality free-draining potting mix. Full sun is essential. Root restriction keeps the tree compact and brings on fruiting, which is exactly what you want. Repot or root-prune every two to three years in winter.
Watering and Feeding
In the ground, water figs deeply but infrequently to push roots down. Once established they are very drought-tolerant, though even watering near harvest helps prevent fruit splitting. Go easy on nitrogen. Too much nitrogen gives you a big leafy tree with little fruit. Instead feed in spring with a balanced or low-nitrogen fertiliser and add potassium (sulphate of potash) to support fruiting and ripening.
Potted figs are hungrier and thirstier because they cannot reach for water and nutrients. Water whenever the top few centimetres of mix dries out, daily in summer heat, and feed monthly with a liquid fertiliser from spring through autumn.
Pruning
Prune in winter while the tree is dormant. Aim for an open vase shape that lets light and air into the canopy, which improves ripening and reduces disease. Figs fruit in two places: the breba crop forms on last year's wood, and the larger main crop forms on the current season's new growth. If you want the early breba crop, do not over-prune, because heavy winter pruning removes the wood that carries it. Remove dead, crossing and inward branches, tip-prune to encourage new fruiting wood, and cut back hard only if a tree has outgrown its space.
Harvest and Storage
Figs do not ripen further once picked, so harvest only when fully ripe. A ripe fig is soft to the touch, hangs down with a bending neck, and often shows a drop of nectar at the eye. Pick gently, ideally with a snip of stem, and handle carefully because ripe figs bruise easily. In warm regions you may get two crops: an early summer breba crop and a heavier late summer to autumn main crop.
Fresh figs keep only a couple of days. Do not refrigerate them for long, as the cold dulls the flavour and texture. For longer storage, freeze them whole or dry them, both of which figs do beautifully.
Pests and Problems
Figs are tough, but a few issues are worth watching.
- Birds: birds will strip ripe figs fast. Netting the tree, or netting individual branches on a large tree, is the only reliable fix.
- Queensland fruit fly: a serious pest in subtropical and tropical regions. The soft sweet fruit is highly attractive. Use exclusion netting and traps, pick ripe fruit promptly, and never leave fallen fruit on the ground.
- Fig rust: brown spots and premature leaf drop in humid areas. Rake up and bin fallen leaves, and keep the canopy open for airflow. Trees usually recover the next season.
- Scale: sap-sucking insects on stems and leaves. Wipe off light infestations or treat with horticultural oil.
- Root-knot nematode: stunts trees in sandy soils. Build up organic matter, mulch well, and grow in pots in problem ground.
- Fruit splitting: heavy rain or uneven watering near harvest splits ripening fruit. Even watering and good drainage reduce it.
Best Fig Varieties for Australia
| Variety | Skin & flesh | Best climate | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Black Genoa | Dark purple skin, deep red flesh | Warm temperate to subtropical | The benchmark Aussie fig. Large, rich and sweet, very productive, reliable breba crop. |
| Brown Turkey | Brown skin, amber flesh | Cool to cold | The most cold-hardy variety. Reliable in Melbourne, Canberra and Hobart. |
| White Adriatic | Green skin, strawberry-red flesh | Hot, dry inland | Exceptionally sweet, excellent for drying. Thrives in Perth, Adelaide and inland heat. |
| Preston Prolific | Green to golden skin, amber flesh | Warm temperate | Australian-bred, heavy cropper, good disease resistance, compact for small gardens. |
| White Genoa | Yellow-green skin, pale sweet flesh | Warm temperate to subtropical | Large, excellent fresh, less vigorous so easier to keep in bounds. |
Black Genoa
The most popular fig in Australia. Large, dark purple fruit with deep red flesh. Rich, sweet flavour. Very productive and reliable in all but the coldest regions. The benchmark variety for home gardens.
Brown Turkey
Hardy variety that handles cold better than most figs. Medium-sized, brown-skinned fruit with amber flesh. Less sweet than Black Genoa but very reliable. Good choice for Melbourne, Canberra, and Hobart.
White Adriatic
Green-skinned fig with strawberry-red flesh. Exceptionally sweet and excellent for drying. Self-fertile, heavy cropper. Does well in hot, dry climates (Perth, Adelaide, inland regions).
Preston Prolific
Australian-bred variety with green to golden fruit and sweet amber flesh. True to its name, it produces heavily. Good disease resistance. Compact growth suits smaller gardens.
White Genoa
Large, yellowish-green fruit with sweet, pale flesh. Excellent fresh. Less vigorous than Black Genoa, which makes it easier to manage. Reliable in warm-temperate and subtropical regions.
Two Crops Per Year
Many fig varieties produce two crops in a season in warm Australian climates:
- Breba crop (early summer): Fruit forms on the previous year's wood. This crop is usually smaller and the figs are larger. Not all varieties produce a reliable breba crop.
- Main crop (late summer to autumn): Fruit forms on the current season's new growth. This is the bigger, more reliable crop.
Black Genoa and Brown Turkey produce reliable breba crops in warm regions. In cooler climates, the breba crop may not ripen before cold weather arrives.
Container Growing
Figs are among the best fruit trees for containers. In fact, restricting the roots actually increases fruit production and controls tree size.
- Use a pot at least 50 cm wide and deep, with good drainage
- Premium potting mix with slow-release fertiliser works well
- Water deeply when the top 3 cm of mix dries out
- Feed monthly with liquid fertiliser during the growing season (spring to autumn)
- Repot every 2 to 3 years, trimming roots by one-third
Container figs can be moved to sheltered spots in winter (important in frosty areas) and positioned for maximum sun in summer.
Pruning
Figs fruit on new growth and (for breba crops) on the previous year's wood. Pruning goals are to keep the tree at a manageable size and let light into the canopy.
- Prune in winter while the tree is dormant
- Remove dead, crossing, and inward-growing branches
- Keep the centre open for light and air circulation
- Tip-prune long branches to encourage branching and more fruiting points
- Fig trees respond well to hard pruning if they get too big
Common Problems
Fruit fly
A serious pest in subtropical and tropical regions. The soft, sweet fruit is highly attractive to Queensland fruit fly. Use exclusion netting, traps, and pick ripe fruit promptly. Do not leave fallen fruit on the ground.
Birds
Birds will beat you to ripe figs. Netting the whole tree is the most effective solution. For large trees, net individual branches or accept sharing some of the crop.
Rust
Brown spots on leaves, causing premature leaf drop. More common in humid climates. Rake up and dispose of fallen leaves. The tree usually recovers fine the following season.
Track Your Fig Growing
Add figs to your garden in the Planting Season app and get reminders for pruning, feeding, and harvest time.
Open the App →Frequently Asked Questions
When should I plant fig trees in Australia?
Plant bare-rooted fig trees in winter (June to August) while they are dormant. Container-grown figs can be planted any time but establish best in autumn or spring. Figs grow in all Australian mainland climates.
Can I grow figs in pots?
Figs are one of the best fruit trees for container growing. Restricting the roots actually increases fruiting and keeps the tree small. Use a pot at least 50 cm wide and deep, a free-draining mix, water regularly, and feed monthly through the growing season.
Do fig trees need a pollinator?
No. All common Australian fig varieties, such as Black Genoa, Brown Turkey and White Adriatic, are self-fertile and set fruit on their own. They do not need a caprifig or a second tree.
Why is my fig tree not producing fruit?
The most common cause is too much nitrogen, which drives leafy growth at the expense of fruit. Avoid high-nitrogen lawn fertilisers near the tree, feed with a low-nitrogen potassium-rich fertiliser, and give the tree full sun. Very young trees and heavily pruned trees also fruit poorly until they settle.
Do figs really crop twice a year?
In warm regions many varieties carry two crops. The breba crop forms in early summer on last year's wood, and the main crop forms in late summer to autumn on the current season's growth. In cool climates the breba crop may not ripen, so the main crop is the reliable one.
How do I protect figs from frost?
A fully dormant, established fig is frost-hardy and tolerates light frost. Young trees, potted figs and the autumn crop are frost-sensitive. In cold areas grow figs in pots so you can move them to a sheltered spot in winter, plant against a sun-facing wall, and mulch the roots. Choose Brown Turkey, the most cold-hardy variety.
How long until a fig tree fruits?
A fig planted from a container or bare-rooted stock usually produces its first fruit in 1 to 2 years, with full production by 3 to 5 years. Container-grown figs often fruit in their first season because the restricted roots push the plant to fruit.
See also: Figs in the Plant Library
