Rich dark finished compost being shovelled from a timber compost bin

Composting Guide for Australian Gardens

Hot, cold, worm farming, and Bokashi methods with troubleshooting tips

Compost is the foundation of a productive garden. It improves soil structure, feeds soil microbes, retains moisture, and provides slow-release nutrients to plants. Making compost turns kitchen scraps and garden waste into the best soil amendment you can get, and it is free.

This guide covers the four main composting methods, the carbon-nitrogen ratio that makes compost work, and how to fix common problems.

Composting Methods

Three-bay compost bin system in an Australian backyard

Hot composting

Layering green and brown materials into a compost bin

The fastest method. A well-built hot compost pile reaches 55 to 65 degrees Celsius internally and produces finished compost in 6 to 8 weeks. It kills weed seeds and pathogens.

  1. Build a pile at least 1 cubic metre in size (smaller piles will not heat up properly)
  2. Layer carbon-rich materials (brown) and nitrogen-rich materials (green) in a roughly 3:1 ratio by volume
  3. Moisten each layer as you build (the pile should feel like a wrung-out sponge)
  4. Turn the pile every 3 to 5 days when the temperature drops below 45 degrees
  5. The pile is finished when it stops reheating after turning and looks like dark, crumbly soil

Cold composting

The lazy method. Add materials as you have them, let nature do the work, and wait. A cold compost pile takes 6 to 12 months to break down but requires almost zero effort. Just keep adding scraps and garden waste on top and let it rot.

Cold compost does not heat up enough to kill weed seeds, so avoid adding weeds with seeds. Otherwise, almost any organic material can go in.

Worm farming

Compost worms (red wrigglers or tiger worms) process kitchen scraps into nutrient-rich castings and liquid fertiliser. Worm farms are compact, odourless when managed properly, and perfect for small spaces.

Bokashi

A Japanese method that ferments kitchen scraps (including meat and dairy) using specific microbes. Not true composting, but a fermentation process that pre-digests food waste before it goes into the soil or a compost bin.

Carbon-Nitrogen Ratio

Green and brown composting materials side by side

Good compost needs a balance of carbon-rich materials (brown, dry) and nitrogen-rich materials (green, wet). The ideal ratio is roughly 25 to 30 parts carbon to 1 part nitrogen, but in practice, just aim for about 3 parts brown material to 1 part green by volume.

Carbon-rich (brown) materials

Nitrogen-rich (green) materials

Tip: The most common composting mistake is adding too much green material and not enough brown. This creates a slimy, smelly mess. When in doubt, add more brown material.

Troubleshooting

Hands holding finished dark crumbly compost with earthworms

Compost smells bad

Smells like ammonia or rotten eggs. Too much nitrogen (green) material and/or too wet. Add dry carbon material (shredded cardboard, straw) and turn to add air. The smell should clear within a day or two.

Compost is not heating up

Turning steaming compost with a garden fork

Pile too small (needs at least 1 cubic metre), too dry, or not enough nitrogen. Add nitrogen-rich material (fresh grass clippings, chicken manure), moisten, and turn. Ensure the pile is at least 1 metre in each dimension.

Compost is attracting flies

Exposed food scraps attract vinegar flies and blow flies. Always bury fresh kitchen scraps under a layer of carbon material. Cover the top of the pile with a layer of straw, dry leaves, or cardboard.

Compost is too dry

Add water while turning. The pile should feel like a wrung-out sponge throughout. In dry Australian climates, you may need to water your compost pile as regularly as you water the garden.

Track Your Composting

Use the Planting Season app to track your composting schedule and get reminders for turning and feeding your worm farm.

Open the App →

Frequently Asked Questions

How long does compost take to make?

Hot composting takes 6 to 8 weeks with regular turning. Cold composting takes 6 to 12 months. Worm castings build up over 2 to 3 months. Bokashi fermentation takes about 4 weeks (2 weeks in the bucket plus 2 weeks in soil).

Can I compost meat and dairy?

Not in standard compost bins or worm farms. Meat and dairy attract pests and create odour. Bokashi is the only home method that handles meat and dairy, because the sealed bucket and fermentation process prevent these problems.

What should I not put in compost?

Avoid diseased plant material, weeds with seeds (in cold compost), meat and dairy (except Bokashi), pet droppings from cats and dogs, treated timber or sawdust, and glossy printed paper.

Do I need to buy a compost bin?

No. A simple pile on the ground works. Bins are tidier and keep pests out, but they are not essential. Even a circle of wire mesh makes an effective compost bay. Start simple and upgrade later if you want.