What to Plant in Winter in Sydney

Winter is Sydney's second-best growing season, and most gardeners waste it

Sydney's winter is mild. Daytime temperatures sit between 15 and 18 degrees, overnight lows hover around 7 to 10 degrees (colder in Western Sydney, warmer on the coast), and rainfall drops off compared to summer. These conditions are perfect for dozens of crops that struggle or bolt in summer heat.

If your garden sits empty from May to August, you're missing some of the easiest, most productive growing months of the year.

Leafy Greens: The Winter Stars

Cool weather is leafy green weather. These crops bolt (run to seed) in Sydney's summer heat but grow slowly and sweetly through winter.

• Lettuce: Sow every 2 to 3 weeks from April through August for continuous harvest. Cos, butterhead, and oakleaf varieties all perform well. Direct sow or transplant seedlings.
• Spinach: True spinach (not silverbeet) thrives in Sydney's winter. Sow from April to July. Bloomsdale Long Standing and Winter Giant are reliable varieties. Pick outer leaves for an extended harvest.
• Kale: Plant seedlings in March to May for winter harvest. Tuscan kale (cavolo nero) is particularly well suited to Sydney. The cold sweetens the leaves. Harvest outer leaves and let the plant keep producing.
• Silverbeet: Almost indestructible. Plant any time from March to August. One plant can feed a household for months. Fordhook Giant is the standard variety.
• Rocket: Sow from March to August. Germinates in 4 to 7 days and is ready to eat in 4 weeks. Succession sow every 3 weeks.
• Asian greens: Bok choy, pak choy, tatsoi, and mizuna all prefer cool weather. Sow from March to August. Quick to harvest, often ready in 6 to 8 weeks.

Brassicas: Plant Them Early

Broccoli, cauliflower, cabbage, and Brussels sprouts need a long, cool growing season. The key in Sydney is to plant seedlings early, in March or April, so they have time to develop large heads before spring warmth triggers bolting.

• Broccoli: Plant seedlings in March to April. Harvest the main head in June to July, then keep picking side shoots for weeks. Green Magic and Di Cicco are good choices.
• Cauliflower: Plant seedlings in March to April. Needs rich soil and consistent moisture. Snowball and Miniature White mature faster than full-sized varieties.
• Cabbage: Plant seedlings in March to May. Sugarloaf and Red Drumhead are suited to Sydney. Space 40 centimetres apart.
• Brussels sprouts: The slowest brassica. Plant seedlings in February to March for a July to August harvest. They need 5 to 6 months and prefer the coolest spot in your garden.

Root Vegetables

Winter root vegetables develop sweeter flavour when they mature in cool soil. Direct sow all root crops, as they dislike transplanting.

• Carrots: Sow from March to August. Takes 12 to 16 weeks to mature. Nantes and Chantenay types handle Sydney's heavier soils better than long varieties.
• Beetroot: Sow from March to August. Ready in 8 to 12 weeks. Succession sow monthly. Detroit Dark Red and Chioggia are reliable.
• Radish: The fastest root crop. Sow from March to August and harvest in 4 to 6 weeks. French Breakfast and Cherry Belle are classics.
• Turnips: Sow from March to July. Ready in 6 to 10 weeks. Purple Top White Globe is the standard.
• Parsnips: Sow from April to July. Slow to germinate (2 to 3 weeks) and slow to mature (16 to 20 weeks). Use fresh seed only.

Peas and Broad Beans

These legumes fix nitrogen in the soil, improving it for the crops that follow. They're the perfect winter crop for building soil health while producing food.

Peas: Sow from April to July. Sugar snap, snow peas, and shelling peas all grow well in Sydney winter. Provide a trellis or climbing frame. Pick frequently to encourage more pods.

Broad beans: Sow from April to June. They handle Sydney's coldest nights without protection. Aquadulce is the standard variety. Pinch the growing tips once pods start forming to deter aphids and direct energy into the beans.

Alliums: Onions, Garlic, Leeks

Garlic: Plant cloves in April to May. Push them 3 centimetres deep, pointy end up, 10 to 15 centimetres apart. Harvest in October to November. Australian-bred varieties like Glenlarge, Monaro Purple, and Italian White are best. Supermarket garlic is often imported and poorly suited to Sydney conditions.

Onions: Plant seedlings or sets in April to June. Short-day varieties (Early Texas Grano, Cream Gold) are suited to Sydney's latitude. Harvest when tops fall over, usually in November.

Leeks: Plant seedlings from March to June. Slow growing but extremely reliable. Harvest from July onwards. They take up little space and produce for months.

Winter Herbs

Several herbs that struggle in summer heat perform brilliantly in Sydney's winter.

• Coriander: Bolts within weeks in summer. Sow from March to August for slow, leafy growth. Succession sow every 3 weeks. Slow bolt varieties last longer.
• Parsley: Sow or plant seedlings any time, but winter-planted parsley grows thick and lush without bolting. Italian flat-leaf has more flavour. Curly parsley is hardier.
• Dill: Sow from March to July. Grows well through winter without the rapid bolting that happens in warm weather.
• Chives: Plant divisions or seedlings any time. Winter is when they build strong root systems ready for spring growth.

Frost Considerations Across Sydney

Most of Sydney's winter crops tolerate light frost, so frost protection is rarely needed. The exception is Western Sydney, where overnight temperatures can drop to minus 2 or minus 3 degrees in June and July. In Penrith, Richmond, and Camden, use frost cloth over tender seedlings like lettuce and Asian greens. Established brassicas, peas, broad beans, and root vegetables handle frost without damage.

Coastal suburbs from Bondi to Manly to Cronulla almost never see frost. You can plant through winter without any frost protection at all.

Frequently Asked Questions